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Advice about Kitchen worktop joint

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tsb

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How would you join a laminated worktop in a kitchen where the induction hob has been designed to fit approx 25 mm from the joint/corner. I've thought about doing a normal worktop jig cut with the worktop bolts, glue and fit the worktop then remove the bolts after it has dried. Then cut the hob hole out in situ. I'm not a kitchen fitter but just doing a favour for a neighbour. Would the joint be strong enough without the bolts
 

Lons

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I probably wouldn't do it in the first place as it's poor design and it's asking for trouble relying on just the glue, however strong a joint that might make as it's a situation where the joint can get wet and swell the chipboard. If you MUST do it then my advice would be to screw a reinforcing metal strip under the joint to provide rigidity and support.

I'm retired but I fitted hundreds of kitchens when I had my business btw but Doc Bob might be able to offer you some words of wisdom.
 
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tsb

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Looked it over again today and yep bad design. Asked designer how to do the joint (cos they are the experts and have fitted 100's and 1000's of kitchens before I became a designer) and got an "oh" "yeah" answer. Anyway, they are supplying another length cheap, so sorted. Will do joint like you have said Richard
 

RichardG

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I agree, although I suspect that’ll be pushing the joint beside the sink:rolleyes:
I'm surprised how many kitchens installed by so called 'professionals' have not considered worktop jointing locations or have items recessed into the worktop leaving very little material with no support underneath.

@tsb If you can't relocate the joint then you can get some very small worktop bolts called ZipBolts which you may be able to squeeze in, the smallest only requires 80mm.

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PeteHB

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If you have one you could use Dominoes and the Domino connectors that are less intrusive than the standard connectors
 

MikeJhn

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How would you join a laminated worktop in a kitchen where the induction hob has been designed to fit approx 25 mm from the joint/corner. I've thought about doing a normal worktop jig cut with the worktop bolts, glue and fit the worktop then remove the bolts after it has dried. Then cut the hob hole out in situ. I'm not a kitchen fitter but just doing a favour for a neighbour. Would the joint be strong enough without the bolts
I assume the hob is going to be 625mm from a wall, why not change the worktop joint around so the joint is parallel with the hob, in other words take the worktop with the hob into the wall on the other side of the adjacent worktop, I assume you have a masons mitre jig.

Read the rest of the thread now, and others have said the same, Oh well I tried to help.
 
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