Adjustable Sticking Board

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I have been asked by my WW club to do a demonstration on the Veritas Combination Plane. It seemed like a good reason to overhaul my sticking board this afternoon - this is one I use for smaller pieces and drawer parts. I thought that if it turned out well, I would make a long version.

What's new? Well, the screws at the left front, that acted as stops, have been replaced with a solid serrated stop ...

This was inspired by a recent modification to my bench, when I added a serrated steel planing stop to a dog ...

The article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... gStop.html

The underside of the sticking board now has non-slip. This is available in rolls for stair treads.

I needed to try the sticking board out with the Veritas Combo Plane. The first demonstration would be a simple groove for a drawer side or drawer front. The wood is Hard Maple ...

Start with thin shavings at the end, and work back to the beginning. Once the groove is established, take coarser cuts ...

This is a very straightforward joint with the grain. Easy peasy ...

I turned the board around to complete the second demonstration, which will be a bead ...

... and noted that the last third of the side was reversed grain ...

The board was just a piece from the scrap box, and it had been milled with a helical thicknesser/planer. I had not planed it after this, and when I ran a block plane up the side edge to create a slight bevel to reduce the work for the beading blade, I noticed this tearout ...

Now if I went at this with a standard plough setup (45 degree cutting angle), I am pretty certain that the board would suffer a lot more tearout. This is the difficulty with using plough planes to create beads (or other mouldings) - you really need to selected straight grain boards. Its the reason I tend to use a beader, such as the Staney/LN #66, or a scratch stock.

Recently I had the idea to add a 15 degree micro backbevel to these blades to create a 60 degree cutting angle. This is written up here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReview ... Plane.html

So, trying this out here: Again, starting at the end, and taking light cuts ...

I thought that I had got it all. The surface looked pretty good ...

... but with raked lighting I could see it was still torn out. I think that this was the original tearout. It is hard to tell if I added more.

The tearout was a lot shallower than it appears here, and only needed a few passes with a scraper to be gone ...

I was happy with the results so far ..

Now can I do dados on a sticking board?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[AndyT]

Detailed, practical, clear. Thanks Derek!

 

[Bodgers]

You've convinced me to make a sticking board now. Where did you get the serrated stops from?

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Bodgers, you make the stop. It is annealed O1 steel - which is how one purchases it. It is soft and easy to drill. You file it as if you were making a saw plate. There is a link in the above to a previous article I wrote on making a planing stop. The stop was 8 tpi.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Honest John]

Thanks for posting. I love using my 050 combination plane but I always struggle to hold the job piece securely. This would seem to be the answer and has just become my very next project. I’m guessing that this is one of those bits of kit that everyone knows about, but me :roll:

 

[D_W]

John - do you have a vise on the long end of your bench?

I have a vise on the end, and dog holes in the first row. Not because of work like this, but because I make planes and the easiest place to work on them is right at the edge of the bench. It turns out to be a lovely way to hold things like drawer sides so that they can be at the edge of the bench or a little over.

I do need to make some dogs the style of derek's, though. Super low profile and lots of bite.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

David, I made another dog for the end vise ...

The combination of two creates rigid holding with less effort.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Derek,

What is the purpose of the stepped fence on your sticking board? Is it to permit support for already rebated sides /edges where another profile has to be shaped onto an adjacent edge, such as on sash bars etc ??. Is the wide step to accommodate specific work you do or simply wide enough to accommodate most applications? ..................so many questions.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

The stepped fence is simply for support different height boards. Higher boards use the higher side, and low boards the low side (so the fence rods have clearance).

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[D_W]

David, I made another dog for the end vise ...

The combination of two creates rigid holding with less effort.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Excellent, and very practical. Agree (and I have a relatively weak end vise the way I have it set up, so that extra grip would be helpful. I realize after seeing your setup with those low dogs, I've been lazy and gotten by with plastic dogs that don't have bite (same psychological flaw that would cause someone to strip wires with a pocket knife when a couple of purpose made wire strippers are 50 feet away - just do enough to get done each time, and it's suboptimal in the whole). The kurled dogs that are generally available have a pretty high cross section and are not compatible with a plow plane.