A2 Plane Iron Users

[JohnCee]

Hi,

I'm surprised at you having trouble with Quiansheng irons. The few I have were the flattest and finest polished from new as I could hope. I think only the LV irons I have were marginally better and I mean marginal. It is also funny that the chrome content in the D2 is very high which should make it impossible to get a really keen edge, it is almost stainless steel, and the silicon and Vanadium make it hard, too. The T 10 should be infinitely easier to sharpen and the edge much keener. I don't care what you say, there is more to this sharpening malarchy than meets the eye.

Perhaps you should have sent the Quiangsheng blade back as a dud. Workshop Heaven seem to have the best QS irons around, if you did not get yours there, you should give them another go.

Mike.

Bought 2, both badly warped across width. Usual exemplary WH customer service, replaced without question. The 2 replacements were initially flat. One has remained so, the other is now warped. I'm sure Matthew would replace this also, but I'm afraid I decided life was too short by this point. No reflection on WH, I continue to be a very happy customer.
I really don't know if I have ended up with very untypical quangsheng steel. The stuff I have seems to skate over an XX-coarse diamond stone and defy all flattening attempts. The D2 is a doddle in comparison. You're right, the edge is not great, but getting it to take the best edge it can is not difficult.

 

[yetloh]

I too am surprised that anyone has difficulty sharpening the Quangsheng blades. I find the T10 steel takes and holds a better edge than what I consider to be the much inferior A2. So it's no contest so far as I am concerned.

Jim

 

[jimi43]

I too am surprised that anyone has difficulty sharpening the Quangsheng blades. I find the T10 steel takes and holds a better edge than what I consider to be the much inferior A2. So it's no contest so far as I am concerned.

Jim

+1

Totally agree....

And...mine came with a flat face which has stayed flat.

I don't see a huge difference between a good old 01 and my T10...but the only A2 iron I have I wouldn't buy any more again. I think my view might be different if I were to use another sharpening system...but that ain't going to happen any time soon.

Jim

Jim

 

[JohnCee]

I too am surprised that anyone has difficulty sharpening the Quangsheng blades. I find the T10 steel takes and holds a better edge than what I consider to be the much inferior A2. So it's no contest so far as I am concerned.

Jim

I don't have any difficulty sharpening the flat ones (I also have a QS block plane with a flat blade). They're OK. Prefer A2.

 

[Kalimna]

Well, I am seriously considering the purchase of both a QS No.7 and a new blade/cap iron for a 4 1/2 from eBay. And it will be an interesting comparison work and sharpening wise to the LN 5 1/2 and Hock blade/cap iron in a cheap Stanley no 7.
At the stage i am on the woodworking learning curve, Im not sure I will be able to detect the difference in use, but some of the metal I have had to grind away seems a damn site harder than others.

Cheers,
Adam

As a side thought, how about this for a 'rough' comparison of the steels mentioned so far:
O1 - easiest to sharpen, finest edge, doesnt last very long. Useful for final finishing/general.
A2 - Tougher steel, longer lasting edge, not quite as fine an edge and a bit trickier to sharpen. Useful for general flattening.
D2 - Damn tough. Not as fine an edge, hardest to sharpen. Useful for hogging material (?v good for scrub use?) and for those averse to frequent sharpening

 

[woodbrains]

As a side thought, how about this for a 'rough' comparison of the steels mentioned so far:
O1 - easiest to sharpen, finest edge, doesnt last very long. Useful for final finishing/general.
A2 - Tougher steel, longer lasting edge, not quite as fine an edge and a bit trickier to sharpen. Useful for general flattening.
D2 - Damn tough. Not as fine an edge, hardest to sharpen. Useful for hogging material (?v good for scrub use?) and for those averse to frequent sharpening

Hello,

In a nutshell, this is pretty much it and knowing this goes a long way to using the right tool in the relavent circumstances. Just as there is no such thing as a universal tool, there are no universal steels and the variety we can get our hands on all adds to the scope of the work we can do and the enjoyment.

Mike.

 

[GazPal]

The only drawback to using/relying upon tougher steels can sometimes be a reluctance - element of laziness - toward re-whetting an edge. The resulting damage to a finish surface can sometimes prove catastrophic for the piece being worked upon, so - regardless of whichever alloy of kryptonite is in use - treat blades as though they need whetting as frequently as plain carbon steel and you'll seldom go far wrong. :wink:

Most fairly complex honing operations should seldom take no longer than a minute or two per blade or iron. Regardless of steel alloy in use.

 

[JohnCee]

As a side thought, how about this for a 'rough' comparison of the steels mentioned so far:
O1 - easiest to sharpen, finest edge, doesnt last very long. Useful for final finishing/general.
A2 - Tougher steel, longer lasting edge, not quite as fine an edge and a bit trickier to sharpen. Useful for general flattening.
D2 - Damn tough. Not as fine an edge, hardest to sharpen. Useful for hogging material (?v good for scrub use?) and for those averse to frequent sharpening

Hello,

In a nutshell, this is pretty much it......

No it isn't. A2 can plane hardwood to a mirror finish. Ray Iles uses D2 for his infill smoothers. Go figure, as they say.

 

[JohnCee]

As a side thought, how about this for a 'rough' comparison of the steels mentioned so far:
O1 - easiest to sharpen, finest edge, doesnt last very long. Useful for final finishing/general.
A2 - Tougher steel, longer lasting edge, not quite as fine an edge and a bit trickier to sharpen. Useful for general flattening.
D2 - Damn tough. Not as fine an edge, hardest to sharpen. Useful for hogging material (?v good for scrub use?) and for those averse to frequent sharpening

Hello,

In a nutshell, this is pretty much it......

No it isn't. A2 can plane hardwood to a mirror finish. Ray Iles uses D2 for his infill smoothers. Go figure, as they say.

 

[bugbear]

I don't see a huge difference between a good old 01 and my T10

The "good old" blades are W1, not W1 and T10 is rather similar to W1.

BugBear

 

[woodbrains]

As a side thought, how about this for a 'rough' comparison of the steels mentioned so far:
O1 - easiest to sharpen, finest edge, doesnt last very long. Useful for final finishing/general.
A2 - Tougher steel, longer lasting edge, not quite as fine an edge and a bit trickier to sharpen. Useful for general flattening.
D2 - Damn tough. Not as fine an edge, hardest to sharpen. Useful for hogging material (?v good for scrub use?) and for those averse to frequent sharpening

Hello,

In a nutshell, this is pretty much it......

No it isn't. A2 can plane hardwood to a mirror finish. Ray Iles uses D2 for his infill smoothers. Go figure, as they say.

Where did anyone comment on the surface produced by the blades, stop inferring incorrectly, and we might get somwhere.

 

[Jacob]

........ we might get somewhere.

:lol: :lol:

 

[woodbrains]

I don't see a huge difference between a good old 01 and my T10

The "good old" blades are W1, not W1 and T10 is rather similar to W1.

BugBear

I think this should read 'not O1 and T10 is rather similar...'

Bugbear is correct, W1 is the good old steel, but I don't think O1 is any more removed form it that T10. T10 is water tempered as W1, but the former is alloyed with nickel and silicon, (and possibly tungsten depending on the maker) which is not the same as W1. O1 is arguably closer in alloyant respects.

Mike.

 

[jimi43]

I don't see a huge difference between a good old 01 and my T10

The "good old" blades are W1, not W1 and T10 is rather similar to W1.

BugBear

I think this should read 'not O1 and T10 is rather similar...'

Bugbear is correct, W1 is the good old steel, but I don't think O1 is any more removed form it that T10. T10 is water tempered as W1, but the former is alloyed with nickel and silicon, (and possibly tungsten depending on the maker) which is not the same as W1. O1 is arguably closer in alloyant respects.

Mike.

Well you quench your steel in what you want...I get 01 Tool steel and quench it in oil...I don't use W1 from days of yore.....except when it comes with a tool attached at a bootfair! :mrgreen:

And if we are being pedantic W1 was mostly quenched in brine. I am willing to stand corrected on this though...as is the wont of these threads....

Meanwhile I'll be in the shed turning up a handle for my good old Sorby firmer...using HSS (I have no idea what type of HSS it is...it just has HSS written on the shaft!)

Jim

 

[yetloh]

I'm losing the will to live...

Jim

 

[woodbrains]

="jimi43

And if we are being pedantic W1 was mostly quenched in brine. I am willing to stand corrected on this though...as is the wont of these threads....

Jim

Hi,

No, you a right, as in it is quenched in water (W) with a modified boiling point. Think about the temp steel is tempered and the BP of water! It is still referred to as water hardened steel, regardless. Or would you like me to call A2 as 'N2,O2, CO2, Water Vapour, trace Ar, Ne, He........' hardening steel? :roll:

The real thing everyone is missing, is that it is not just the alloy, or method of tempering which imparts the characteristics we want in our steel. I think I am right in saying that only Clifton still hammer the steel billets for their plane irons, to get the required grain structure to give us sharper edge attainment and tenacity. The fancy pants alloys try to do this with just chemistry alone and to a certain degree, fail. I do have some stretch hammered chisels from Stubai which indicates there is still some proper toolmaking in Europe too, although these would be great chisels if the bevels were finer--ruined for a ha'peth of tar. When I get some funds I might replace with some AI's.

Incidentally, I don't think there is anyone in the US forging in this way and the LV and LN blades are machined fron solid bar. This might guarantee flat (?) backs but IMHO weak steel.

Mike.