A top to fit to my nightstand requesting help please.

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devonwoody

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I am putting a picture in the gallery of a nightstand cabinet minus the top.
The top I have purchased from MFI comes from one of their flat pack bedroom drawer units.
As you will see from the photograph the top is well oversized. What I want to do is tobe able to take off the waste on the right hand side of this top and then replace the sawn edge of the retained piece using some of the wastes decent edge.
I have a table saw and also router and table.

Your experience or advice is sought.

Thanks.
 
It doesn't look oversize to me, DW, anyway, if you want to trim laminated top eg worktop, then usually you cut it oversize with a circular saw, then trim it with a router running along a straightedge turning the top over if necessary so that you are cutting INTO the front edge and OUT at the rear. As far as trimming the waste piece so that you can stick it onto the new edge, doesn't sound feasible to me. I would try to peel off the existing stuck on edge, clean the glue off and stick it to the new edge
John
 
Devon... this is the cabinet with the teak effect top??
I agree with John; to me it doesn't look oversized at all. I'm struggling for ideas to strip the edging for re-use... about the only thing I can think of would be to try to soften the glue with a steam iron; probably less hassle to take the offcut down to your local big box and see if they can colour match a suitable piece.
 
Thanks for responses,

I suspect the picture you have seen in the gallery is the first nightstand with a top already fitted. (it has a raw edge but is not a problem because it sits against a wall corner and is unseen)

The second nightstand picture if its got to the gallery yet has a roughly 3x2ft top standing upright in picture.

The edging of this board is quite substantial around 3/16th thick and I was wanting to know really if anyone else had used this stuff and gain from their experience. The finish of this type of board is way above the boards you see in the DIY outlets.
 
Can't see the picture but by the thickness (3/16) it sounds like some form of solid surfacing, is the colour solid through the whole edge strip?

Both corian and minerelle are made in 6mm thicknesses, you can by edging strip for the minerelle 1350x45x6 it is joined by a two part colour matched epoxy which is then sanded smooth right through to 1200 grit and the joints are almost invisible.

http://www.richardrussell.co.uk/view_stock.cfm?sec=13

It would be possible to fix the edging strip to a flat surface with double sided tape and route away the core using spacers either side to run the router on, only problem would be it wont have an overlap so will need fitting back on exactly.

I have not worked the minerelle but corian is easy to work with a router if a bit messy! this is a bathroom I just finished.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v156/jaso ... CT0006.jpg

Jason
 
Jason,
What can I say but thank you for allowing me to look. SUPER. SUPER.

I gave the wife a shout, which I shouldn't have done because she said
"couldn't you do something like that"

I haven't cut into my own boarding yet but I see you had dovetails on the drawers, was that the same stuff?

Put up your thread with link I'm sure it would convert Alf to man made board. :roll: :roll: :roll:
 
devonwoody":1tkli6pq said:
Put up your thread with link I'm sure it would convert Alf to man made board. :roll: :roll: :roll:
<Looks at ply in timber store, OSB-lined workshop walls, MDF trammel in coffee table thread etc and wonders how far this conversion has to go... >
huh.gif
biggrin.gif


Cheers, Alf
 
All the draws were Iroko, there's a time & place for manmade board and that wasn't one of them.

Hope to have some pics of the decorated (buy client) bathroom soon.

Jason
 
DW,

Is the top finished with a real pice of timber? Could you with care saw it off and after cleaning it up reglue it on to the cut down top?

Is the board veneered? Does the veneer go over the edge banding? This makes it much hard to cut down. What is the core of the board, chip board, MDF or real wood? Do you have any 'spare' bits of the edging to practise with or is it a got to be right first time job?

Maybe with some more information we may be able to help.
 
Hi Davel,
I haven't cut it open yet (the top piece) Like I said to jasonb its got a thick lipping alround the edge (about 3/16ths)

The top cost £9 at MFI so I cant imagine there is any real wood about. The finish doesn't look like the cheap stuff you get at the DIY outlets.
My plan after reading jasonb's advice is to cut off the waste end, put the double sided selotape on and then router the final wastage off the lipping to use on the retained piece.

Unless somebody who has done this before and I'm all ears.
 
DW, from that price it must be some form of manmade board with a veneer or foil surface and sprayed melamine finish, the solid surfacing does not come with a wood grain & costs MUCH more, the retail cost for that bathroom is just over £3k including the bonded corian basin! Won't tell you what I paid incase the customer is reading :D

The routing method should still work OK.

Jason
 
Thanks again

Temperature forecast for Wednesday 11c so will most probably venture out then and have ago. Its not too bad if the bit only cost £9 and I make a mess of it.
 

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