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Trevanion

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MikeJhn":wfffdgto said:
And you have not shown me anything to prove that having a rubbing block on a blade does not involve friction, any friction will produce heat and that is inefficient, a scientific fact, a bearing on the back of the blade will produce far less stress than a disc oriented the wrong way and turning in opposite directions on the blade over its contact area instead of following the path of the blade.
I never said that it didn't involve friction, I just said that it was never a problem. It's always the blade that dulls before anything else happens and you change it out. There is no blade guide system on the planet that's going to guide a dull blade through timber without issue. It's an over-engineered, pointless solution that's trying to find a problem that just isn't there unless you look at the extreme theoretical numbers rather than actual practical use.

You're the one trying to say it's better than everything else, but you can't actually give me any proper evidence to say that it is, other than theoretical nonsense.
 

Trevanion

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MikeJhn":1fvongnl said:
I will stick to my and all engineers theoretical nonsense
You’re more than welcome to, just don’t push to expensive unnecessary nonsense on people calling their equipment “outdated” when you don’t actually have any practical experience to back up all your daft statements.
 

Trevanion

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MikeJhn":waz8oa7p said:
You really have a way with words. :roll:
Then don’t come into threads like a know-it-all claiming that people’s equipment is “outdated” and they’re doing everything wrong if you don’t like being called out on the absolute nonsense you’re spurting out and can’t back up all the ridiculous claims.

I’m more than happy to be proved wrong as it’s always information gained but you’ve said absolutely nothing to convince me otherwise.
 

Trevanion

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MikeJhn":1c7s5hlh said:
The nonsense is all yours with your outdated premise and rude replies.
I'm sorry if my replies have been percieved as "rude", there is no malicious intent behind any of my replies even if they're blunt in what they say. I just really do not appreciate it when people have no basis for what they're saying other than "I'm an ex-engineer so I know what I'm talking about" which you've used on more than one occasion on several threads I've seen, including the one on the same topic where you snidely called me:

MikeJhn":1c7s5hlh said:
Not an engineer then.
Unless you can actually prove that Carter guides work better than other "outdated" or "old-fashioned" methods other than that you "think they work better because on paper they should" I will stick to what I'm saying. I think you've spent your whole life telling people how stuff should be done in your previous job and now you think that everything that you come up with in your head must be correct. Now that was a rude comment.
 

Trevanion

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MikeJhn":19uyomm7 said:
So glad you hang on my every word, but your "old fashioned" views do not alter the fact that rubbing blocks are inefficient.
Any inefficiency caused by a little rubbing on a block or disk is going to pale in comparison to actual wood cutting. I’d be surprised if the inefficiency of the blade running against the guide was any more than 1% compared to the cutting. It’s a solution looking for a problem which simply is just not there. Stop looking at the piece of paper and actually do some work with the machine, then you’ll see your argument is completely pointless because the blade will get dull and it will wander and drift like it would any other kind of guides. Efficiency does not come into the equation at all.
 

MikeJhn

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I have tried to stop this useless discussion on more than one occasion, but you seem to have a bee in your bonnet about being contradicted please move on, have a good evening.
 

Trevanion

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MikeJhn":20w4k28w said:
I have tried to stop this useless discussion on more than one occasion, but you seem to have a bee in your bonnet about being contradicted please move on, have a good evening.
It’s not a useless discussion, I’m trying to figure out what’s so magical about these Carter guides and every reason you’ve come up with so far for not made any sense in an actual practical way and has only compounded what I think of them.

As I said earlier I’m open to having my mind changed if there’s proper reasoning behind the argument, I’ve changed my mind before when someone who actually knows what their talking about gives me an undeniably good excuse for them. I never used to believe in helical cutterheads but I’ve since changed what I think of them.

If you wanted to stop the conversation why do you keep coming back for more? :roll:
 

MikeJhn

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Trevanion

Over the few years I have been on this site I have always considered your contributions to have been worthwhile and worth reading, what has happened to your usual logic and acceptance of others views, I can only think that you have had some trauma in your life recently that has made you either illogical or angrier than your usual self, please take this as a genuine concern for your wellbeing and look inwards to see what possibly has gone wrong recently.
 

Ttrees

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Not that I have a an opinion other than the saw could do with being upgraded to tension a stouter blade
Either that, or Derek might have better luck with trying another brand of blade, if he's finding excessive rubbing on the thrust guides.

Having recently switched to another blade manufacturer, it suits my troublesome tires a whole lot better now.
I'm favouring a blade which will not dance about, so I can stop babying my machine.
I don't have to worry about my thrust guides now.
I welded a quarter inch of meat onto the thrust guide that previously had very deep cuts in it.
I get minimal rubbing now compared to before, and am happy with 3/4" blades that have sufficient beam tension
when tensioned.

I also welded beads onto the rollers that was in the same state, but there is play on them, so omit them from the equation.
Deema has mentioned before that he checks the set on his blades and fixes them.
I now can understand with the new blades I have.
I now favour a blade with a tooth here and there with excessive set that gives a rougher finish,
rather than having a blade with a perfect set, but will dance about and bear on the thrust guide most of the time,
slowing the cut, babying the saw, and never being able to have trust in the machine.

My rollers have been welded also, as they were destroyed by the previous owners employees.
I can't trust them as the welding probably damaged the bronze bush
so they are only there for aesthetics, and maybe protection if a blade were to snap.

I don't think I would ever want ceramic side rollers as I would be very worried that resin could build up
and pinch the blade and pull a tire off.
I can understand having timber rubbing blocks or very close to rubbing.

If I were hell bent on having ceramic side rollers, I would have some fail safe system that would allow the
guides to have expansion, like spring loaded or a snug fit.
if resin were to build up it hopefully would push away the rollers rather than grinding the saw to a halt.

My 2 cents.
Deema, I'd love to see your system for setting the teeth.
Tom
 

johnnyb

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this thread went pear shaped quickly! one member swapped his bearing guides on a n4400 for felder ceramics and said the difference is negligible. hope some real opinions help ie dont bother!
 

beech1948

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About 5 yrs ago I was considering upgrading my 352 with ceramic guides at no little expense.

I called Record Power re my Startrite 352 and asked them for advice.

Their advice was that they saw none to miniscule advantage of ceramic over the metal triangular guides which came with the saw and it was better to get the adjustment down to a systematic approach to avoid adjustment errors than to bother changing guides.
 
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