A question for you clever people

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Jacob":1o5a7vhb said:
Teckel":1o5a7vhb said:
Jacob":1o5a7vhb said:
Don't see the point of the steel jig - a bit of board with a block nailed on would do just as well if not better.

I don't see the point of any jig...just do it freehand.
Well yes. Easy to do. The Pro-edge has a tool rest which makes it even easier. People seem to want things to be difficult.
For those who really need to be told how to do it - set the Pro-edge at 45º to the horizontal (or whatever angle you want) using a protractor or similar, then hold the tool horizontally and do it freehand.

This thread is a good example of how really stupid expensive gadgets (Wolverine jig) make life more difficult for the unsuspecting novice.

With some of your comments I am glad I am not a novice , next you will be saying you don't need a lathe just bolt some wood to a car drive axle and use a plough bucket as a tool rest
 
Blister":2ygrzmzm said:
.... I have some 1" dia gouges up to a meter long that weigh 3kgs + , and you are supposed to support that size tool on a 3" V block accurately ,
The longer it is the easier it is to maintain an angle accurately. Shouldn't be a problem.
And I have yet to see a decent freehand grind , most look like dogs dinners
Practice practice! After a bit you can't tell the difference. Difficult with a small diameter wheel but very easy with a flat belt sander, especially the Pro-edge with it's adjustable angles (but avoid jigs)
Looks like the thread is drifting off from the original question :?
It's about how to grind a chisel at a particular angle isn't it? Strictly on topic!
 
Jacob":1od8xml4 said:
Blister":1od8xml4 said:
.... I have some 1" dia gouges up to a meter long that weigh 3kgs + , and you are supposed to support that size tool on a 3" V block accurately ,
The longer it is the easier it is to maintain an angle accurately. Shouldn't be a problem.
And I have yet to see a decent freehand grind , most look like dogs dinners
Practice practice! After a bit you can't tell the difference. Difficult with a small diameter wheel but very easy with a flat belt sander, especially the Pro-edge with it's adjustable angles (but avoid jigs)
Looks like the thread is drifting off from the original question :?
It's about how to grind a chisel at a particular angle isn't it? Strictly on topic!

+1 :D
 
Teckel

Hi can you post some images of a selection of you hand sharpened gouges , I need some inspiration , on how good they look and how easy it is to do :wink:
 
just have a go Blister. They look as good as jig done - once you have got the knack with a bit of practice. Once you've got it ALL sharpening becomes faster and easier and you work improves in the process.

PS you don't need a V block either; the Proedge has a tool rest and even if it didn't you'd still be better off without a V block or any sort of jig.
NB the trick with grinding curved surfaces is to keep them moving. Hold it at the angle and turn from right to left and back again without stopping.
 
I'd love to be able to grind freehand, but I don't have the time to practice enough to become proficient, particularly with a finger nail / Ellsworth grind. I find jigs (Tormek in my case) make the process easier and repeatable time after time so I can spend more time turning.

Allen's question was about how to use his chosen jigs, not a critique of whether he should be using jigs in the first place.
 
cambournepete":181wtwny said:
....
Allen's question was about how to use his chosen jigs, not a critique of whether he should be using jigs in the first place.
I thought it was about how to grind the angle.
The other trick besides keeping it moving, is to do a dry run. Try rolling your gouge bevel on a flat surface but keeping it in contact. That'll be roughly the movement you have to make freehand grinding. It isn't difficult.
 
Blister":29y8f4v1 said:
Teckel

Hi can you post some images of a selection of you hand sharpened gouges , I need some inspiration , on how good they look and how easy it is to do :wink:

I don't have to prove anything to you BUDDY!! :wink:
 
Blister said:
inaspin said:
Hi

Yes you are missing something

I have the Sorby jig for bowl and spindle gouges and in my opinion its next to useless on big gouges , I have some 1" dia gouges up to a meter long that weigh 3kgs + , and you are supposed to support that size tool on a 3" V block accurately , NO way , not unless you like multi faceted bevels , I like single bevels not hollow

And I have yet to see a decent freehand grind , most look like dogs dinners

Hi Blister

Sorry was not trying to offend you, and i agree the V block is not the best bit of kit and it did not say in your post that you were sharpening one inch gouges, i understand why that doesn't work well now.

Regards

Berns
 
I wondered what a finger-nail/elsworth grind was and found this:

11816_5F00_irish.jpg


Some shapes generated by a complicated jig may well be difficult to emulate freehand, but the question then is do you really need them? The answer almost certainly is no.

I think that is a feature of jiggery pokery in general - it impresses because it can do things not easily done freehand, like those precise micro bevels so loved by so many.
But they aren't necessary.
Freehand sharpening gets there just the same, but differently.
 
Jacob":4wwjuag1 said:
I wondered what a finger-nail/elsworth grind was and found this:

11816_5F00_irish.jpg


Some shapes generated by a complicated jig may well be difficult to emulate freehand, but the question then is do you really need them? The answer almost certainly is no.


Jacob

one question , are you a woodturner ? as in own a lathe and frequently make things
 
Blister":jnyu7f58 said:
....
Jacob

one question , are you a woodturner ?
Yes thanks. On the side. I've done lots of bowls and things in the past but latterly just table legs, knobs and shaker style pegs - all dead trad, I'm not into "hollow forms" particularly
as in own a lathe and frequently make things
It's an old Arundel J4 - photo here http://owdman.co.uk/howto/howto2.htm NB that stand is really good and rock solid.
 
Blister":3lvp5k6v said:
As I am not one I have to ask :oops:

I have combined my belt sander and wood turning tool sharpening jig and need to know how to work out the contact angles between the belt and chisel ? to give say a 45 degree bevel

The belt is adjustable from vertical to 90 degrees , and the tool holder is a wolverine sliding bar system

I can do some photos if needed

I have set it up and made spacers and mounting blocks etc

Reason for doing it is I don't like hollow bevels that you get with 6" and 8" grinders

Digital Angle Gauge?

Use it to set the belt spot on vertical, stick it on top of the tool and slide the bar in/out until you get the angle reading that you want and Bob's yer wotsit! :mrgreen:
 
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