A question for you clever people

[Blister]

As I am not one I have to ask

I have combined my belt sander and wood turning tool sharpening jig and need to know how to work out the contact angles between the belt and chisel ? to give say a 45 degree bevel

The belt is adjustable from vertical to 90 degrees , and the tool holder is a wolverine sliding bar system

I can do some photos if needed

I have set it up and made spacers and mounting blocks etc

Reason for doing it is I don't like hollow bevels that you get with 6" and 8" grinders

 

[Blister]

26 views and no answers yet

I am not alone :lol: :mrgreen:

 

[Jacob]

45º surely? What's the problem exactly?
Why not just freehand at the angle you want?

 

[deserter]

I would of said surely if you rest is at 45 to the belt then what ever you grind will also be at 45.

Incidentally I have seen an 8" wheel before but surely the 6 foot wheel leaves no discern able hollow to the grind... Lol.

 

[cambournepete]

A picture would be of interest (and might help) but if I understand the question correctly then to get a 45 degree bevel on the tool the angle between the belt and the tool rest on the jig must be 135 degrees (90+45).

 

[Blister]

The belt can be placed in any position

as can the slide depending on the lenght of tool being sharpened

and it varies the contact point of the chisel being sharpened

so was hoping to find a way of knowing what angle will be achieved rather than pot luck :mrgreen:

5 photos

 

[Jacob]

You adjust it until the angle between the chisel and the sander is 45º. I don't think there is another way!
You might need a protractor or a set square. This is both in one:

 

[cambournepete]

Ah, I was thinking of the flat tool rest, not that one...
I wouldn't worry about exact angles, which will vary with tool length as well as projection of rest and belt angle.
I'd makes notes of the relevant positions of both for each tool you want to sharpen.

This does highlight what I see as a minor snag with that type of rest though, in that the more you grind a particular tool the shorter it gets so you need to move the rest rest...

 

[tomatwark]

Cut a piece of wood to 45 degrees then tape it to the top of the chisel and use that as a guide to set the correct angle for the length of chisel.

And if you are going to be doing it a lot glue a couple of magnets into the wood.
Tom

 

[Jacob]

Don't see the point of the steel jig - a bit of board with a block nailed on would do just as well if not better.

 

[katellwood]

Surely with the sanding belt positioned in the vertical then using the overall length of the chisel as the hypotenuse square this then divide the result by two, you then square root this figure and set the jig this distance from the front edge of the belt, this should give you a 45degree angle on the tool

 

[Jacob]

That'd do it. Or a/sinA = b/sinB = c/sinC. A little set square would be easier though.

 

[MattMoore]

A little ott perhaps, but if you have a combination square perhaps you could use the head to hold against your chisel. Using the small spirit level would get you very close to 45degrees?

 

[Jacob]

A little ott perhaps, but if you have a combination square perhaps you could use the head to hold against your chisel. Using the small spirit level would get you very close to 45degrees.........

Not OTT at all - using it would get you exactly 45º. You wouldn't need the spirit level though.

 

[Teckel]

Don't see the point of the steel jig - a bit of board with a block nailed on would do just as well if not better.

I don't see the point of any jig...just do it freehand.

 

[andersonec]

Cut a piece of wood to 45 degrees then tape it to the top of the chisel and use that as a guide to set the correct angle for the length of chisel.

And if you are going to be doing it a lot glue a couple of magnets into the wood.
Tom

I was going to say that but your idea of taping it to the chisel goes a stage better
.

Andy

 

[woodaxed]

seems best idea to tape it to the chisel as if you use a jig with a stop on it each time you grind it the chisel will get shorter
or as was posted before a peice of wood cut at 45% and use that as a guide

 

[inaspin]

Hi

Am i missing something hear, i have a pro edge the same as the one in the photo with very accurate pre drilled angle settings. It also has a swinging arm set up for sharpening gouges at a 45 degree angle which works perfectly, i do not understand the need for that wolverline type arm thingy that you have rigged up seems completely unnecessary to me. Regards

Berns

 

[Jacob]

Don't see the point of the steel jig - a bit of board with a block nailed on would do just as well if not better.

I don't see the point of any jig...just do it freehand.

Well yes. Easy to do. The Pro-edge has a tool rest which makes it even easier. People seem to want things to be difficult.
For those who really need to be told how to do it - set the Pro-edge at 45º to the horizontal (or whatever angle you want) using a protractor or similar, then hold the tool horizontally and do it freehand.

This thread is a good example of how really stupid expensive gadgets (Wolverine jig) make life more difficult for the unsuspecting novice.

 

[Blister]

Hi

Am i missing something hear, i have a pro edge the same as the one in the photo with very accurate pre drilled angle settings. It also has a swinging arm set up for sharpening gouges at a 45 degree angle which works perfectly, i do not understand the need for that wolverline type arm thingy that you have rigged up seems completely unnecessary to me. Regards

Berns

Yes you are missing something

I have the Sorby jig for bowl and spindle gouges and in my opinion its next to useless on big gouges , I have some 1" dia gouges up to a meter long that weigh 3kgs + , and you are supposed to support that size tool on a 3" V block accurately , NO way , not unless you like multi faceted bevels , I like single bevels not hollow

And I have yet to see a decent freehand grind , most look like dogs dinners

Looks like the thread is drifting off from the original question :?