A question for the plane restorers.....

[Argus]

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Need advice and materials recommendation, please.

I'm doing up an old and battered Stanley 190. (A rebate plane, same pattern as the 78, but without the fence and front blade mount).
It is sound all over, except that there's next to nothing left of the original black finish - bare metal all over, it works fine, but looks weird.

Can anyone recommend a black enamel finish, brushable as I don't have any expensive kit, readily available and with as near the hardness and properties of the original?


Many thanks

.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've used hammerite and it's been fine as long as it's left long enough to cure - I don't collect, though, I use mine.
There's another metal paint called "Q 90"? I think, which, apparently is better. I've not tried it though.

 

[Argus]

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Thank, you, Phil. I'm a user, too - I don't collect planes just to look at them.
At present the bare iron with no colour resembles one of these bald cats with no fur. It troubles me!

When it's been restored to good shape, it will go on the shelf and get a second life of use.

I'd heard of Hammerite, but not sure if it will cure to a hard enough finish. I'll check out your other recommendations.

.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

QD90 is the name, sorry. I overheard a technician in a college I was working in advise someone to use it instead of hammerite. He said they had used it to paint machinery 15yrs before, ande that they had shown no significant wear. Worth a look.

 

[GazPal]

You could use Rust-Oleum too. It's what I use when restoring Record planes and tools, brushes on and cleans up easily and dries to an enamel hard resilient finish. :wink:

 

[deserter]

QD90 is traditional machine enamel, made by black friars.

 

[jimi43]

If it's black...I would go for "cold enamel" finish....

A mixture of asphaltum and marine varnish. Our very own Derek Cohen mentions the Stephen Shepherd method here.

Another link can be found HERE

I have a large bag of asphaltum and can send you some if you need it.

The key to authenticity is the oily look of the finish which you don't get with paints. It also looks deeper and thicker...like solidified tar really..which of course...it is!

The downside is that it takes weeks to harden off...I put mine on a radiator in the winter...(in the downstairs loo mind!)...but if you live in a suitable location you can always leave it outside in the Outback! :mrgreen:

Pre-warm the casting helps with adhesion and curing.

Jim

 

[Cheshirechappie]

'Machine Enamel' or 'Machinery Paint' would be the ideal stuff, but as far as I know, it's not available in small quantities - you'd need to buy a litre at least. For one rebate plane, a tin of Humbrol enamel would do nicely. You can get 50ml tinlets, which would be plenty for one plane. Model shops or one of the craft supply superstores if there's one in your neck ofthe woods should have stocks.

 

[AndyT]

It's your plane and it's up to you, but if it was mine I would just leave it as it is, maybe with a wipe of Zebrite to ease the black/no black blotchiness. In my opinion, putting new paint on a century old plane whose original finish has worn away is like wearing a toupee or dyeing your hair - it just doesn't look right. The asphaltum and varnish option would look better than paint but in general I prefer to halt the decay, not try to reverse it.

 

[Scouse]

I have to say I'm with Andy on this one with regard to planes, but it is a matter of taste.

I have Hammerited the odd tool, and they never look quite right, so now I just leave them and just give the occasional wipe with camellia oil to keep rust out; eventually they develop a nice patina. For example

 

[jimi43]

Absolutely agree guys...but the OP asked for a cheap...brushable...similar to the original...paint finish recommendation....

So I kept out of the "cool....brushed metal....lived in...history retaining" look...which I too prefer! :wink:

Cheers

Jim

 

[stoatyboy]

or you could strip all the remaining finish off and give it that matt black 'stealth plane' look with some aerosol VHT engine paint.

which is, I admit, about as non original as you can get - but lots of fun - probably not the best thing for a spiers or norris tho!

just a thought