A bit of advice please

[Paul Hannaby]

Hi Paul H.....Yes the grain is running parallel with the bed. I guess thats why I didn't get a tight purchase with the screws? I did try and angle them slightly. I can't cut my own blanks at the moment so am limited to what I have....thats another thing I have to address.

Hi Jane,
No problem with using parallel grain blanks but in those situations and yes, you're right about the screws not holding so well in end grain (one solution to this is to drill and plug with some cross grain dowels so the screws hold better.

A bowl gouge used in the conventional manner is not the best tool for the job when hollowing end grain. You would probably be better off using a hollowing tool and make your cuts from the centre to the edge rather than vice versa. You may find this easier to do by drilling a hole in the center of your piece to the depth you want to hollow it to.

If you don't have a hollowing tool, a round nose scraper can be used or even a fingernail grind spindle gouge rotated by around 60° anticlockwise so the cut is taking place roughly from the centre to the front of the left wing of the gouge.

 

[Melinda_dd]

Welcome jane.

When I first started turning I just used a pair of safety glasses and a dust mask..... Then read an article about a lady who was killed by a lump of wood flying off the lathe and hitting her in the face.... scared the bejeebers out of me.

I now have a full face protection visor. It's not an expensive one... think around a tenner but it does deflect any flying bits! I will one day invest in a trend jobby but they're real expensive.
I still wear a dust mask under the visor though.

My workshop (tiny shed that I like to think is a workshop 6x4) was so hard to work in until I decided to clear it, invest in some racking and make it easier to maneuver in.Your enjoyment will double when you've cleared and re organised!

Lastly, keep at it. You don't have be be the best, or create masterpieces..... just enjoy it!

 

[Deejay]

Morning Jane and welcome to the forum

+1 for Keith Rowley's book.

There's a lot of useful stuff on the information pages here ...

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/index.html

You could also have a look round on YouTube.

Cheers

Dave

 

[tidalcreations]

Hi Rich....here's a pic of the chuck. Its still in the same condition as when I got it. I know...criminal! I came across the receipt also. You might be able to see where part of the bottom has sheared off the piece of larch I was using for a play.

Eugene...I will...I promise!

Dick....Ouch! Don't do it again!

Phil...I think that is what happened as you can see by the pic. The larch doesn't have a very tight grain anyway. Thanks so much.

Colin and Nev... Gentlemen, please.... :lol:

Hi Sawyer....thanks for the welcome. I was hollowing from the edge inwards which didn't feel right. I didn't know about the basic principle

Paul H....Valuable advice...thank you! I'll try by drilling a hole to get me started and attempt with a round nose scraper. I don't think I have any suitable hollowing tools.

Melinda....I will pop into town and get a full face visor before I turn the lathe back on. I'm looking forward to having a fully functional shed again....one where I can move and not trip over things with chisels or coffee in hand #-o Lol....not being able to create a masterpiece first time has always been an issue of mine when it comes to anything I do. I'm trying to live with mistakes and flaws that add character to creations....and most important....have fun

Thank you Dave. I just had a look at the site.....very useful information there.

Thanks again everyone. This forum is wonderful! I feel I'm learning so much.....I just need to put it into practice. I'm in the process of shed clean up operation.

 

[jumps]

Ah the Multistar Duplex Chuck...... I have to say I like it a lot for specific jobs and still use mine from time to time in preference to a scroll chuck.

However, you realy need to be very precise in the diameter of the recess or spigot you turn, including the bevel angles, to get the best out of it's holding capabilities - this isn't specific to this chuck really because all jaws have a sweet spot in terms of their circle diameter, but you have little actual adjustment beyond that with this one. I might add that generally I find I can get a more secure hold with expansion into a recess than on a spigot, especially if the wood is at all 'green'.

I've also noticed it is one of the quickest items I have to 'rust' in the presence of any moisture - the good news is that it also cleans up pretty easily with a bit of tlc! You have a manual which, when I first had mine, I didn't - so discovering where each of the rings etc went to set it up for expansion or contraction modes was great fun but I got there eventually. Look like you have a range of jaws too - enjoy it.

 

[Jonzjob]

Welcome from me too Jane. As you have found out it is a adictive hobby and if you follow the advise given on here then you will soon be enjoying it as much as the rest of us.

I don't have any hollowing tools, so when I'm doing things like goblets or egg cups I use a spindle gouge. It can be slightly alkward if you have a deep hole to hollow, but not too much. Drilling the hole is very good advise too. It gives you a depth gauge, gets rid of a load of wood and makes the job so much easier.

So, welcome to the slippery slope lass!

 

[richburrow]

That is a great chuck, really smooth movement!!!!!!
As jumps says get the measurement etc as close as poss.
I have got one and it is a treat to use

 

[Paul.J]

Rich.
I'm not familiar with that chuck but would Jane be better off using those spare jaws on pieces like she's trying to do,using a bigger/deeper tenon??
The tenon in the piccy is far too small Jane to hold that size of piece.
You would also be better off if you can by using a 3/8"/10mm bowl gouge.The 1/2" will be taking quite a big cut.

 

[jumps]

Rich.
I'm not familiar with that chuck but would Jane be better off using those spare jaws on pieces like she's trying to do,using a bigger/deeper tenon??
The tenon in the piccy is far too small Jane to hold that size of piece.

An interesting discussion that is worthy of a seperate thread Paul. The only real 'longer thinner' spigot that could be used here would be a 50mm one located inside the throat of the same jaws (they locate a screw chuck there as well) - and it could be about 50mm long. Personally I don't see that as any stronger and would rather use the largest diameter spigot (but more preferably in a recess/expansion). I believe the other jaws there are for very small diameters - but I may be wrong as they made many variations.

 

[richburrow]

Hello there Paul I hope you are well.
Like Paul said I would say the jaws in the top left of the box look like they could take the longer tennon, it would need to go all the way down and sit right into the jaws. Is that the piece that hit you? When the piece is unbalanced like that one looks, slow the lathe right down, gradually speed it up and the thing becomes more even. Also if it comes off when spinning slowly it wont hurt as much.

 

[jumps]

Hello there Paul I hope you are well.
Like Paul said I would say the jaws in the top left of the box look like they could take the longer tennon, it would need to go all the way down and sit right into the jaws.

The jaws top left in the box will take a 25mm spigot and support it over, about, 15mm :?: I'm sorry but to me it would be er on the side of foolhardy to mount that piece in that way (homer) They might look a little like o'donnell scroll chuck jaws but don't forget most of that material is the internal jaw location system on the Duplex chuck.

The jaws shown will support 50mm over about 50mm as well as the spigot actually shown - either would be significantly stronger; which would be better will depend on a number of variables.

 

[richburrow]

Fair comment jumps, I have fallen for a scale mishap of the eye, my multi is for a different lathe and is very rarely used. I use a K10 and a patriot.

 

[jumps]

I use a K10 and a patriot.

and I agree that either of these with nice big o'donnell jaws would be a good solution for mounting such an end grain piece securely

it's interesting to note that the largest K10 o'donnell's are only 50mm, and as such they wouldn't actually offer much more support than using the throat of the Duplex. in fact, with green wood and a bit of precision you can get the best of both worlds using the duplex - but that's another thing and also needs great care to set up.

edit - I went down and checked the Duplex measurements and the throat is designed to take a 38mm spigot, supported for about 50mm. the k10 with 50mm o'donnell would be an advantage as the spigot would be a lot stronger.

 

[Paul.J]

Just been reading some old posts about that chuck and it seems it is suited best to small pieces of work.
But those other jaws,on the left of the box do seem to have a gripper on the inside front,suggesting they could be used for larger pieces perhaps??
But as i say i have never used this chuck,just trying to help jane out.

 

[tidalcreations]

Fascinating conversation about the use of the chuck and jaws....but I'm kinda lost I'm trying to understand how to use them properly....so it is very interesting to read.

Rich...it wasn't that piece that hit me. It was a fence post vase I was making. I do keep the speed to its lowest until the wood is more balanced. I don't think I've had it any faster than the second speed...lol.

Thanks everyone for the advice

 

[tidalcreations]

I'm a little embarrassed to post these. The bowl, pot or vessel looks soooo rough! But I wasn't really caring about the roughness just yet....I just want it to stay on the lathe! Grinding back the wings of the gouge have helped tremendously. So far, no catches...but I am taking very gentle cuts. It seems to be taking ages and I'm holding my breath with each cut. I'm still really nervous and have no idea where I'm going with this.... But I've started so I'll finish...hopefully with my smile still intact :lol:

Oh....and the hole I drilled is off centre!

 

[petercharlesfagg]

Looking at your pictures I must say that there is sometimes nothing better than throwing yourself into the deep end! To my mind this is not one of those!

May I suggest? Stop this self torture now and give yourself the time to turn timber that is more forgiving and will give you both quicker results and the temptation to make more! Eventually your skills will increase and tackling difficult items will not be so daunting.

I can well understand your wanting to complete this piece because you have a complete picture in your minds eye just as you do when picking up the sea glass that you transform into other works of art.

The potential of a completed object is to be praised, I just wish that I lived closer to Stranraer to offer assistance.

Have you thought of contacting the Irish Woodturners Guild? http://www.irishwoodturnersguild.com/index.html

There may well be a member close to your home whom I feel sure would be willing to help.

I applaud your determination, but am concerned about your safety, health and sanity in tackling something this difficult at the outset. There is so much information being given on this thread it would be easy to get confused and disorientated as to what to try next.

Warmest regards Peter.

 

[tidalcreations]

Peter....I've sat and thought about your reply....and you are right in what you say. I've just removed it from the lathe. I am being too adventurous....and too impatient for that work of art when I don't have the ability or skills....yet

Lol....my sanity, health and safety can take a bit of a break now. I actually feel relieved its off the lathe. Maybe its something I can go back to at a later date?! In the meantime....I'll turn a couple of vases to restore my confidence until I find that piece of forgiving wood .

I wished you lived nearer here too. The assistance would have been great.

Many thanks for your words Peter

Jane

 

[jumps]

Jane,
I can't think of more challenging piece of wood to be turning, and in many ways I agree with Peter's last post. However you are clearly getting someting right to be getting this far - your comment on now using light cuts suggests that your expectations as to how deep to cut may also have been a little off before; more progress!
On an unrelated front, your observation re some of comments on the chuck struck a bit of a nerve when I read them just now, so I ran (sort of) down to the 'shop and spent a couple of minutes with a chunk of old fence post, skew and camera; I hope this is helpful (?)...
With the multistar duplex you have 3 different ways to hold a piece such as this -

Firstly you could cut a recess in it

and with both inner and outer rings in place

the jaws will work in expansion mode when tightened up to hold in the recess

if you remove the outer ring, the jaws work in compression mode (as yours is currently doing) and you have two options available to you. You can either make a beveled spigot to be held in the jaws (as you appear to have done) with the largest diameter jaws and appropriate diameter spigot being best (again as you did), and in this case that would be

and

or, and I think this was the confusion, you could turn a 38mm spigot, up to 50mm long

and locate it in the throat of the jaws

like this

Each will have advantages and disadvantages depending on the material and dimension of the material (here, for example, the recess would be a poor choice because there is little material outside it to support it and, because it would be splitting the wood across it's weakest axis. If you had plenty of spare then the throat will be strongest as the spigot is only slightly smaller than that for the jaws.
Hope this helps

 

[Wood spoiler]

I do tend to agree with Peter. The pieces you are attempting are ambitious.

But I must say that I was offended when I was told that I should spend the first year of woodturning doing repetitive open bowls ... Yeah right - like that was going to happen.

As someone in his second year of woodturning my considered opinion is that you have taken the best possible step to learning the craft ... By joining this forum. I found it to be the very best step towards learning what i needed to do.

By posting your pictures and asking the accompanying question will usually elicit your answer and sound advice. You will find that we all started ineptly but the knowledge and experience of members flows freely. Keep on doing as you are and you will learn what you need to know to create your own masterpieces and equally importantly to do it safely.