#71 /#71 1/2 Router Cutters

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mudman

Established Member
Joined
11 Feb 2004
Messages
1,151
Reaction score
200
Location
Trying to stay in one piece in South Wales
Quick question:

Should I hone a secondary bevel on the cutters for these little beauties?

Just wondering as all the ones I've seen never seem to have the secondary but it seems to me that it would be a good idea.

TIA
 
Hi Barry,

For me it depends on what I'm using them for. I use mine mostly cross-grain as in refining dados. In that case, a low, shearing angle is best.

For long-grain use I would think there would be a benefit to a steeper angle.

Also, a secondary may exist on the examples you have seen as an aid to quickly honing.

Mike
 
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the quick reply.
I never really thought of a difference depending upon whether or not it's across or with the grain. Makes sense I suppose.

Actually, you may have given me an excuse to keep both the Stanley and the Record versions that I have. One for cross-grain and one for along the grain each sharpened appropriately. :wink:

I must say that I do like these tools. So much quieter than the tailed demons. I picked up a #71 1/2 last week and that is very nice as well. I've been trying to cut a recess into a lid of a box to take some veneer and found the #71 1/2 with its closed mouth a lot easier to handle in this situation.
 
Hi Barry, you're welcome.

I must say that I do like these tools. So much quieter than the tailed demons. I picked up a #71 1/2 last week and that is very nice as well. I've been trying to cut a recess into a lid of a box to take some veneer and found the #71 1/2 with its closed mouth a lot easier to handle in this situation.
I just sold a router and a tool called a DadoWiz (for what else, using a router for dados and sliding dovetails).

The router was used infrequently. I hate the noise. Anymore, I usually either cut a dado shoulder with a handsaw, chisel waste and follow up with the router plane, or if I have a bunch to do, I cut the shoulders on a table saw or sliding miter saw and chisel/router plane them.

Congrats on the purchase and good luck on the box.

Mike
 
Actually, you may have given me an excuse to keep both the Stanley and the Record versions that I have. One for cross-grain and one for along the grain each sharpened appropriately.

<suckin thru teeth.....

Careful now Barry.... I made the mistake of thinking like that too.... got labeled a collector by someone who really oughta know better...

not sayin that it's not sound logic.... jus.... best keep mum about it.. yea...??

:wink:
 
For me it depends on what I'm using them for. I use mine mostly cross-grain as in refining dados. In that case, a low, shearing angle is best.

For long-grain use I would think there would be a benefit to a steeper angle.

Since the cut surface is normally at the bottom of a joint (and thus hidden) I don't worry too much about surface quality - just ease of cutting, for which a low angle is helpful.

BugBear
 
bugbear":1pgwdawq said:
For me it depends on what I'm using them for. I use mine mostly cross-grain as in refining dados. In that case, a low, shearing angle is best.
For long-grain use I would think there would be a benefit to a steeper angle.
Since the cut surface is normally at the bottom of a joint (and thus hidden) I don't worry too much about surface quality - just ease of cutting, for which a low angle is helpful.
BugBear
Yep, I could care less what a dado looks like. Refining here meant deepening a tad for fit.

The long grain mention would be for cutting in stringing or an inlay, in which case I think the steeper angle is a benefit. Maybe. Mostly use a plow or scratch stock for that which by nature are higher angles.

Mike
 
The danger of using a secondary bevel is you can all too easily end up with a secondary on the secondary etc etc until you have a cutter you can hardly push. A particular hassle with these tricky-to-sharpen cutters is restoring a bevel, so it might cut out work in the long run to stick with the one bevel.

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":2kd74mpi said:
The danger of using a secondary bevel is you can all too easily end up with a secondary on the secondary etc etc until you have a cutter you can hardly push. A particular hassle with these tricky-to-sharpen cutters is restoring a bevel, so it might cut out work in the long run to stick with the one bevel.

Cheers, Alf

And I suppose that unless you have a version of Bugbear's holder, re-establishing the bevel by hand would be a nightmare.
 
bugbear":1q2r1jqq said:
You mean the LV mk II sharpening jig won't do it :) ??
I'm waiting on Derek for that one; he's much better at thinking outside the box with that thing. I think where I went wrong was in reading the instructions... :roll: :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
bugbear":36nu23hy said:
You mean the LV mk II sharpening jig won't do it :) ??

BugBear

How astute...

Of course it will...our router plane is supplied with the blade holder for honing the 1/2" blade ends (removeable from the post (the 1/4 is a single forging))...I believe we'll be including it with our set of three blades, for those who chose to upgrade from the "blades" supplied with Stanley 71's...

For the pointed blade, one will need to use the MKII skew projection jig...but that discussion's best left for another day....

Ta -

Rob
(off to Winnipeg, then balmy Saskatoon for a store opening....)
 
then balmy Saskatoon for a store opening....)

Today Saskatoon, tomorrow the world...

BugBear (who can sharpen single forged router cutters, and is looking forward to seeing Rob at Tools2005)
 
Rob Lee":pjdtjm36 said:
for those who chose to upgrade from the "blades" supplied with Stanley 71's...
'Cos who wants to upgrade the ones from Record, Millers Falls etc...

Rob Lee":pjdtjm36 said:
For the pointed blade, one will need to use the MKII skew projection jig...but that discussion's best left for another day....
<Looks sadly at one-piece pointed blade and thinks somehow all is not going to be rosy in that respect> :(

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":11aj3ky8 said:
Rob Lee":11aj3ky8 said:
For the pointed blade, one will need to use the MKII skew projection jig...but that discussion's best left for another day....
<Looks sadly at one-piece pointed blade and thinks somehow all is not going to be rosy in that respect> :(
Cheers, Alf
Gotta admit, I don't know how that one is gonna work, either.

Bet I can figure it out, though :D

Mike
 
bugbear":37ew2d8p said:
then balmy Saskatoon for a store opening....)

Today Saskatoon, tomorrow the world...

BugBear (who can sharpen single forged router cutters, and is looking forward to seeing Rob at Tools2005)

Hi -

On that subject, is there going to be any sort of UKW event? I'd be glad to shout for a round (just how many people are there here...)....

Cheers -

Rob
 
Back
Top