5mm decent drill bit for shelf pins!!

[lastminute]

I have to drill a series of shelf support pin holes in a carcase already fixed to the wall :-(
Is there a decent drill bit on the market?
I also need to make some sort of "jig" ...I assume it will have to be a hard wearing material so as not to wear with use!!
The shelves are only 5" deep, so drilling the rear pinhole may be a bit of a problem.
Any suggestions please!

Gerry

 

[Modernist]

A rectangle of 18mm MDF to fit into the bottom and back of the carcass carefully marked and drilled as a jig and a new lip and spur bit for a clean entry. Funnily enough I am just about to do exactly the same.

 

[superunknown]

Hafele sell purpose made drill bits for drilling shelf supports.

 

[chippymart]

Trend do a jig for about £30 for drilling shelf support holes with the router or a homemade jig and a decent brad point bit if money tight.

 

[jasonB]

I tend to use TCT dowel drills as they have a slower spiral than lip & spur bits so don't pull into the work so quickly, being TCT they also last better in manmade board.

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... mm_39.html

If its just the one set of shelves then a bit of 9mm MDF will do as a jig.

J

 

[CHJ]

When I have had to do them in situ I have just used a scrap of Hardwood, faced chipboard or MDF as a template with just two rows of holes drilled.
I drill the first row then fit plain shelf pins or old drill shank stubs in holes and use them to align the next set in holes, bit more tedious for long runs but a good method if you have to move a shelves up or down to accommodate the change in book format that you favorite author has just published in, allows you to set your own alternate spacing.

I use a standard spur bit but fit a stop collar to set depth and prevent the drill screwing itself in too far and breaking through.

 

[Dodge]

Have a word with Matthew at Workshop Heaven and get a Famag 5mm Lip and Spur bit - I have been using these recently and they are the best, cleanest cutting lip and spur bits I have ever used!

HTH

Rog

 

[petermillard]

For quick little jobs like this I use a Trend Snappy 5mm self-centering bit with the Dakota Pin Jig Template from Rutlands. Works well.

 

[Benchwayze]

I'd get a couple of metres of 50mm x 6mm Aluminium bar.

Careful marking out, and centre-punching, and using a drill press will provide a permanent jig.

But maybe a better way is to rout the holes in the jig, using an end-mill. Make holes that will admit a 1/2" router guide bush.

To cut the holes in your carcass sides, use an appropriate sized cutter, with the bush. The guide bush will locate into the jig, dead-on, and automatically centre your cutter. There will be no wear on your jig; plus you will have clean accurate holes for the pins.

HTH

 

[CHJ]

I'd get a couple of metres of 50mm x 6mm Aluminium bar.

Careful marking out, and centre-punching, and using a drill press will provide a permanent jig.

But maybe a better way is to rout the holes in the jig, using an end-mill. Make holes that will admit a 1/2" router guide bush.

To cut the holes in your carcass sides, use an appropriate sized cutter, with the bush. The guide bush will locate into the jig, dead-on, and automatically centre your cutter. There will be no wear on your jig; plus you will have clean accurate holes for the pins.

HTH

Not exactly applicable in this instant it would appear, I doubt he is going to find it easy to get a drill in let alone a router:--

I have to drill a series of shelf support pin holes in a carcase already fixed to the wall...The shelves are only 5" deep, so drilling the rear pinhole may be a bit of a problem.
......

 

[Benchwayze]

I'd get a couple of metres of 50mm x 6mm Aluminium bar.

Careful marking out, and centre-punching, and using a drill press will provide a permanent jig.

But maybe a better way is to rout the holes in the jig, using an end-mill. Make holes that will admit a 1/2" router guide bush.

To cut the holes in your carcass sides, use an appropriate sized cutter, with the bush. The guide bush will locate into the jig, dead-on, and automatically centre your cutter. There will be no wear on your jig; plus you will have clean accurate holes for the pins.

HTH

Not exactly applicable in this instant it would appear, I doubt he is going to find it easy to get a drill in let alone a router:--

I have to drill a series of shelf support pin holes in a carcase already fixed to the wall...The shelves are only 5" deep, so drilling the rear pinhole may be a bit of a problem.
......

Oh! Okay CH. I'll keep my counsel then.

My apologies 'last-minute'. Seems I got mixed up with what you were doing. You'd be advised to ignore my post, for now, but I hope my 'jig' would be something you (or anyone else indeed) can 'back-burner', for a project on which it can be used.

Looking at the other posts though, I think you'll find an answer to your current problem.

Hope the job goes well. :wink:

 

[twothumbs]

Thank you to Benchwayze for that one. Will remember it for several purposes.

Good luck.

 

[Benchwayze]

Thank you to Benchwayze for that one. Will remember it for several purposes.

Good luck.

My pleasure. Hope it helps.