5minute epoxy

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Stigmorgan

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So I've cut up some boards from a condemned P.E bench ready to glue up to make some bowl blanks, I need to sand off the varnish first but would the 5minute epoxy I have from poundland be strong enough to withstand being turned? I'll take some pics of the boards tomorrow, they're a little cupped with some splits running through but the wood is beautiful once turned and finished
 

Stigmorgan

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Thanks guys, will be sanding back until I'm 100% sure the varnish is gone and once clamped I would leave it all for a few days at least just to be sure.
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These are my intended glue ups, i may decide to glue the whole lot up into one block and turn it as a gift to the head teacher when she retires in a couple months, you can see the cupping that occurred as I cut the board up, plus you can see the split board on the left, lots of sanding to do 🤪 glad I have a little detail sander and 80 grit paper 😁😁😁
 

Lons

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Why do you want to use expoxy? It's relatively expensive for the area you want to glue, has no benefit and it's less likely you'll get even coverage which can reveal gaps as you turn.

I'd strongly suggest you use a decent pva, glue up the lot in one go and clamp it securely for a few days before use. I use Titebond almost exclusively these days but any good brand will do the job well and it's stronger than the wood if properly prepared. If the work is likely to encounter any damp use a water resistant or outdoor type.
I've never in 50 years had segmented joints fail btw.
 
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Richard_C

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Yes pva. Another benefit is you will get a longer working time than 5 minute epoxy so it can move a bit as you take your time clamping it up.

(What did the bench do that was so heinous it was condemned? I thought the death penalty was abolished in the 60s.)
 

Stigmorgan

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Why do you want to use expoxy? It's relatively expensive for the area you want to glue, has no benefit and it's less likely you'll get even coverage which can reveal gaps as you turn.

I'd strongly suggest you use a decent pva, glue up the lot in one go and clamp it securely for a few days before use. I use Titebond almost exclusively these days but any good brand will do the job well and it's stronger than the wood if properly prepared. If the work is likely to encounter any damp use a water resistant or outdoor type.
I've never in 50 years had segmented joints fail btw.

Purely because I have several tubes of it, the blocks are 200mm square so expect I would get two joints/ maybe 3 per tube of resin. If the general consensus says no then I'll get whatever is mostly recommended but I like to use what I have to hand if it will work.

Yes pva. Another benefit is you will get a longer working time than 5 minute epoxy so it can move a bit as you take your time clamping it up.

(What did the bench do that was so heinous it was condemned? I thought the death penalty was abolished in the 60s.)
The cracks you can see in a few of the boards was the cause of the bench being condemned, it ran 50% of the length so wasn't repairable, I've already made a few items from leg
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parts of the bench
 

NikNak

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Having worked with epoxy's for circa 30yrs i'd be more concerned with the side effects of the chippings and dust that will come from the epoxy glue while turning. Glove up and air respirator.....ANY sign of swelling or puffiness around your eyes STOP AND DO NOT CONTINUE. I've worked with guys who couldn't even be in the same area as the epoxy's, their face and hands would 'blow up' and resemble michelin men. I worked with a guy who's airways swelled to such an extent he could hardly breath and an ambulance was called.

In all probability it won't happen to you. Just be very aware.......


Epoxy Health Risks​

When liquid epoxy evaporates, (this evaporation process speeds up with poor ventilation and high temperatures) its fumes become respirable. Other respirable particles are produced by sanding partially cured epoxy. Epoxy may be hard enough to sand after a couple of hours, however it may not be completely cured for up to two weeks. The dust produced by the sanding of this epoxy contains hazardous components. [Ref. 1 & 4]
 

Shan

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I like the bowls and plates that you've made but one thing if you want them to be food safe and you use epoxy I wouldn't have thought it the best idea. I've used pva on some off cuts of plywood and it was really easy to work with and strong. But I like your idea and I've been thinking about doing something similar but with different types of wood to get a contrasting effect specially with a deepish bowl for example. Good luck and looking forward to seeing the end result.
 

Lorenzl

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I have become sensitive to epoxy at work; the risk assessment said it was safe to use according to the manufactures CHOSH.

So don't 100% believe the COSH as everybody is different and I would recommend the use of positive extraction to the outside.
 
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paulrbarnard

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5 minute epoxy tends to stay soft/flexible after it has cured. I think it would possibly creep in the joint once you have turned the piece. Go with PVA as others have said.
 

Stigmorgan

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Thanks guys,
@Shan that's a good point I hadn't considered the effects on being food safe, if I glue them into one long blank then I would turn it into a trophy type shape.

As for ventilation I always have the garage door fully open with a fan blowing towards the outside and a vacuum to catch the majority of dust when sanding.
 

sawtooth-9

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I rarely use 5 min epoxy.
I use a structural epoxy and allow plenty of cure time.
It's not great for filling in cracks, because the viscosity is too high, but for jointing - its the best you can get.
Also it is probably the longest lasting glue around.
 
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