40 1/2 scrub plane..

[Alf]

Okay then, until the pudding goes off, I'll stick with it. I agree though; if you clamp two boards together and joint the edges, the cambered blade is a Bad Thing.

Just to trade advocates; Jeff Gorman, David Charlesworth and Charles Hayward all advocate the cambered edge approach. Ain't woodworking a marvellous thing? :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

Yes it is :lol: . All of these people are outstanding woodworkers and teachers (I'm not up on Charlesworth yet and I have only one basic Charles Heywood book). And then there are people such as James Krenov and Cecil Pierce (when things start getting complicated, I think of Cecil teaching handcut dovetails with an old hacksaw). With all these references, I still learn more from other people on fora such as these.

Blade camber is relatively new to me so I come off like a newly converted zealot. I did a lot of experimenting last summer with various cambers and planes and it made a dramatic difference in my woodworking, especially in stock preparation.

 

[Midnight]

During some enforced down time this weekend, I got my head well and truely stuck in a book that may shed some light on some of the confusion here..
Terminology first..

Jointer Plane 26 to 30" long, 3" in sole. Used to shoot long joints, dining table tops etc. Also made in iron up to 24 1/2"

Trying or Truing up Plane usual size 22 by 3 1/4" taking a 2 1/2" iron. Used for all purposes for truing up and preperation work. Shorter ones are known as panel planes, some of which have a removable slip, so that the edge of the iron can be worked close in for sunk bevels on panels.

Jack Plane 17 by 2 1/4" and smaller with 2 1/4" (??) iron used in "jacking up" stuff, or roughly preparing for the try plane.

Bismark, or Roughing Plane a single iron plane used for taking off the dirt and first rough surface of boards.

Iron Panel or Jointer Plane from 13 1/2 to 26 1/2". English make with rosewood fittings Can be used for joints or finishing. An extremely usefull plane for all types of work.

When first reading that last paragraph, I couldn't help wondering what it was that the author had against Spiers or Matheson planes...however... onto uses...

Planing may be roughly divided into four sections. Firstly, Roughing up stuff with a Bismark before marking out. Second, Jack planing, used after roughing to reduce stuff in width or thickness with a greater degree of accuracy before trying up. Third, Try planing, for finishing surfaces and edges perfectly straight and true, and general fitting and jointing. Fourth, Smooth planing, before finishing with scraper and glass-paper.

Convexity of Cutting edge,- Jack plane irons are sharpened slightly convex. Bismark and roughing planes more convex. Trying, smoothing, compass and panel planes almost perfectly straight with the corners rubbed off. Bullnose, shoulder, rebate, fillister and plough irons are sharpened quite straight, care being taken to produce sharp, square corners, which ensure easy working.

The book I'm quoting from is *Modern Cabinet Work* Furnature & Fitments by Wells and Hooper, 4th edition published in 1924.

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting reference, Mike. Does it say when the 1st edition was printed? The terminology sounds much more like early to mid 19th century than 1924.
Getting back to your original post, has your scrub arrived yet?

 

[Midnight]

Roger... the 1st edition was printed in 1908, each subsequent editing benefiting from minor edits.
As for the scrub...
<tutt tuttin...
Check out the tool review section bud.. arrived... and promptly pressed into service..