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3rd nightstand, top required

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devonwoody

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The 3rd nightstand/bedsidetable nearly completed (handles required) but I do not have anymore laminated formica type top to match the previous two stands and drawers in the bedroom.

Therefore I am going to make a toppiece from scrap 1" softwood battens
13"x13"x 40mm thickness.

Any advice gratefully received on making this top.
 

MikeW

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Hi DW,

For general advice, take a look on Alf's site for the tables she is making. There's enough there I think to give some directions. Here's a link to a starting point in her album.

I do like your table, especially the lambs tongue chamfers on the legs.

Alf used a straight bevel on the underside of her top to lighten the appearance, always a good idea. On yours, a slight cove instead of straight might also look good if you can pull it off. Might be worth a piece of scrap or two to look at those types of options.

She also used buttons to attach the top. I don't know how you attached the previous tops. But as you'll be making the top from solid wood, it is a good idea to allow for the movement that will occur.

Please show us the finished stand too.
 

Chris Knight

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Mike,
Thanks for posting the link to Alf's stuff - I haven't looked at her site for a while.

Alf, well done indeed m'dear! Forgive me for not noticing before. :oops:
 

Alf

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Ah well, Mike's one of my Blog readers*, so he's up to speed with what's new.

It'd be more correct to say I will be using buttons to attach the top, but at the moment tops and bottoms are still to be united. Still at the interminably long finishing stage. :roll:

Cheers, Alf

*I can only imagine just how bored he must be to do so... :lol:
 

devonwoody

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Made a start preparing the top, twelve pieces of scrap softwood all out of the waste box and cut to size on my old bandsaw ready to put through the planer/thicknesser later today.

What I have thought about doing is using some silver steel rod 3/8" and screws plus glue of course and making this top something that cannot move because of atmospheric changes taking place.

Anyone done this?
 

Alf

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devonwoody":2lcq710z said:
What I have thought about doing is using some silver steel rod 3/8" and screws plus glue of course and making this top something that cannot move because of atmospheric changes taking place.
It'll still move, and probably do something nasty when it does if you try to stop it. Better to accomodate the movement, IMO. In fact I feel a sig coming on...

Cheers, Alf
 

MikeW

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Wonderful quote, Alf.

DW, cutting boards are/were often held together with torsion rods. Why I don't know really. I have a cutting board in this house that was made pre-1920s without and one we received as a wedding gift oh so many years ago (31 this month :lol: ) that did have rods. Both are in the same shape.

Both are however quarter-sawn maple, which do not move as much as the wood you are using for the tops.

Another method of connection I use sometimes is simply to use pocket screws up through the apron and into the top. Do note that I run a short screw in that will not poke up into the top but otherwise is the appropriate length. I then take a longer screw and grind the tip off to increase the holding power at the end and to make it the appropriate length. I'll post a pic as soon as I have more coffee (I just woke up...).

Anyway, pocket screws will allow enough movement and are quite strong.
 

MikeW

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Here is a pic of a display case that uses pocket screws to mount the case to the stand. There are three along each long side (you can only see two of them) and two on the short sides (which are not yet screwed in).

 

devonwoody

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Thanks for the tips and advice.
The first two cabinets had tops canablised from the bedroom furniture discarded so there was no problem. Going to leave out the rods and put the tops on as suggested.
 

devonwoody

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The third nightstand of the set completed for our bedroom (needs a finish to be applied)
The top for this stand was made up of 1" strips and fitted to carcass with buttons.

 
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