2x electric leaf blowers/vacuums both not working. Anything obvious to check?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Krome10

Established Member
Joined
17 May 2012
Messages
276
Reaction score
50
Location
South West Wales
Hi

They've not been used for two or three years and have been stored in a shed. They worked fine when last used. I've checked the fuses and they're fine. Is there anything else obvious I can check or is it time for a new one? Although saying that, I plan to use it to blow out all of the loose pointing in my walls before a re-point, so if there's something better to use then I'm all ears. An air compressor comes to mind, and perhaps would be useful for other stuff. But I don't know the first thing about them and wouldn't know where to start, which made me think repairing what I have or getting a secondhand replacement might be the cheapest / easiest option.

Cheers
 
Do you have a multimeter that can check continuity? If so I'd check the cable from plug to switch, then switch, then switch to motor both sides. Obviously do this with the machine unplugged.
They aren't really worth spending much time on so I'd go with a mortar rake and vacuum to clear out the pointing, or one of those weed brushes for block paving if it's really soft
 
Did you plug it in ;);)
If the pointing is on exterior wall then just flush it out with a hosepipe after using a mortar rake and save the expense of getting a compressor, you will need to dampen the joints before re-pointing anyway especially in warm/hot weather or the brickwork will simply suck all the moisture from your pointing mix.
 
They are likely 'brushed' motors (ie universals) and if they stand too long, you get copper oxidisation on the commutator...
If you can get access to the fan easily (many just unclip for cleaning) then with it unplugged obviously, give it a few spins so the brushes cut through any oxide layer, then plug it back in and see it it comes to life...
(this was a common issue on a boat we had- there was an electric drill that needed to be 'spun by hand' before using it after it had been in the tool locker for more than a few weeks without being used- salt air is murder on stuff lol)
 
They are likely 'brushed' motors (ie universals) and if they stand too long, you get copper oxidisation on the commutator...
If you can get access to the fan easily (many just unclip for cleaning) then with it unplugged obviously, give it a few spins so the brushes cut through any oxide layer, then plug it back in and see it it comes to life...
(this was a common issue on a boat we had- there was an electric drill that needed to be 'spun by hand' before using it after it had been in the tool locker for more than a few weeks without being used- salt air is murder on stuff lol)
Dabop beat me to it. Just see if you can spin them by hand then you may find they work.
 
The more likely cause is that the brush holders in the motor are rusted/corroded so that the spring behind the brushes cannot push them into contact with the commutator. This is a job that requires a fair amount of dismantling but is fairly straightforward, as you have nothing to lose except time why not give it a go.
 
Hi

They've not been used for two or three years and have been stored in a shed. They worked fine when last used. I've checked the fuses and they're fine. Is there anything else obvious I can check or is it time for a new one? Although saying that, I plan to use it to blow out all of the loose pointing in my walls before a re-point, so if there's something better to use then I'm all ears. An air compressor comes to mind, and perhaps would be useful for other stuff. But I don't know the first thing about them and wouldn't know where to start, which made me think repairing what I have or getting a secondhand replacement might be the cheapest / easiest option.

Cheers
I'm not sure where in South Wales you are but look up Repair Cafe on Facebook. It's a free service and this is exactly the sort of thing they would repair for you.

Mark
 
Hi folks

As ever, some great and very helpful responses on this forum. Thanks one and all.

I do have a mutlimeter and so have taken one of the machines apart this morning. All seemed well to begin with, and I think it has led me to “the problem”. I’ve put that in inverted commas because if it is the reason for no power, then it isn’t so much a problem but more a reminder to read the manual!!!

From what I can tell, there is a double microswitch where the bag connects. So without the bag connected = no power. As I was planning to use it as a blower rather than a sucker, I didn’t think I would need to connect the bag, and certainly didn’t think it would prevent the machine starting up. Of course I might be wrong on this, but there’s no continuity in the latter stages of the wiring until the microswitches are pressed.

I’ll put the machine back together a little later and see if I’m right. In the meantime, if anyone can confirm that what I’ve described sounds likely (or unlikely) then please chime in so I can carry out any further checks while still apart. I’ll post a photo or three of the innards for reference.

RE: Mortar rake, brushing, hose, etc. This part of the house has old stone walls. We’ve removed the concrete render and pointing, and are now back to the lime pointing. It’s really crumbly and to quite a depth in places. So while I plan to use a brush in the main, I was planning to follow up with the blower to get to the parts other brushes cannot reach.

Thanks for the tip RE the Repair Café. That is something I came across quite recently… What a fantastic idea! I’ve got a Bluray player earmarked for when they run one close by on a day I’m not working. Perhaps the leaf blower may take a trip too, but hopefully I can or have got to the bottom of the problem. We’ll see…

Thanks again
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220810_110604412.jpg
    IMG_20220810_110604412.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20220810_110638046.jpg
    IMG_20220810_110638046.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20220810_110650205.jpg
    IMG_20220810_110650205.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
From what I can tell, there is a double microswitch where the bag connects. So without the bag connected = no power. As I was planning to use it as a blower rather than a sucker, I didn’t think I would need to connect the bag, and certainly didn’t think it would prevent the machine starting up. Of course I might be wrong on this, but there’s no continuity in the latter stages of the wiring until the microswitches are pressed.

I’ll put the machine back together a little later and see if I’m right. In the meantime, if anyone can confirm that what I’ve described sounds likely (or unlikely) then please chime in so I can carry out any further checks while still apart. I’ll post a photo or three of the innards for reference.

From the photos, the blower has two sets of microswitch assemblies connected to the main switch. One is where the bag would attach (blue wires) and the other is where the black housing attaches (red and blue wires).
 
From the photos, the blower has two sets of microswitch assemblies connected to the main switch. One is where the bag would attach (blue wires) and the other is where the black housing attaches (red and blue wires).

Yep, I believe you're spot on. So just to confirm, without both pieces attached there would be no power? In which case I think it will be case resolved! Strange that you have to have the bag attached even if just using it as a blower...

Whilst I've got it open, it there any other maintenance I can give it? Looks quite clean to my untrained eye, but if anything does need to be cleaned, lubricated, etc. then I'll get to it today whilst I have it on the operating table.

Cheers
 
Hi folks

As ever, some great and very helpful responses on this forum. Thanks one and all.

I do have a mutlimeter and so have taken one of the machines apart this morning. All seemed well to begin with, and I think it has led me to “the problem”. I’ve put that in inverted commas because if it is the reason for no power, then it isn’t so much a problem but more a reminder to read the manual!!!

From what I can tell, there is a double microswitch where the bag connects. So without the bag connected = no power. As I was planning to use it as a blower rather than a sucker, I didn’t think I would need to connect the bag, and certainly didn’t think it would prevent the machine starting up. Of course I might be wrong on this, but there’s no continuity in the latter stages of the wiring until the microswitches are pressed.

I’ll put the machine back together a little later and see if I’m right. In the meantime, if anyone can confirm that what I’ve described sounds likely (or unlikely) then please chime in so I can carry out any further checks while still apart. I’ll post a photo or three of the innards for reference.

RE: Mortar rake, brushing, hose, etc. This part of the house has old stone walls. We’ve removed the concrete render and pointing, and are now back to the lime pointing. It’s really crumbly and to quite a depth in places. So while I plan to use a brush in the main, I was planning to follow up with the blower to get to the parts other brushes cannot reach.

Thanks for the tip RE the Repair Café. That is something I came across quite recently… What a fantastic idea! I’ve got a Bluray player earmarked for when they run one close by on a day I’m not working. Perhaps the leaf blower may take a trip too, but hopefully I can or have got to the bottom of the problem. We’ll see…

Thanks again
As far as I can tell the motor and circuit boards look good, I'd agree with you on the microswitches. I have a planer/thicknesser that wont work unless the dust collection shroud is attached, although I'd admit there's a really good reason in that instance. Another place to look is if you're using an extention lead, they are a regular culprit for breakages.
 
Thanks for the confirmation. And the reminder. It wouldn't be unlike me to overlook the obvious!! In this case though I did check the extension lead by plugging something else into which worked fine. The I checked the fuses, which were also fine. At which point it was over to you guys!
 
I'd clean the accumulated crud on the impeller blades, but otherwise, it looks okay.

I would never recommend bypassing internal safety features, such as the bag microswitch. However, a piece of thick cardboard could likely be used to depress the microswitch tabs.
 
Hi folks

As ever, some great and very helpful responses on this forum. Thanks one and all.

I do have a mutlimeter and so have taken one of the machines apart this morning. All seemed well to begin with, and I think it has led me to “the problem”. I’ve put that in inverted commas because if it is the reason for no power, then it isn’t so much a problem but more a reminder to read the manual!!!

From what I can tell, there is a double microswitch where the bag connects. So without the bag connected = no power. As I was planning to use it as a blower rather than a sucker, I didn’t think I would need to connect the bag, and certainly didn’t think it would prevent the machine starting up. Of course I might be wrong on this, but there’s no continuity in the latter stages of the wiring until the microswitches are pressed.

I’ll put the machine back together a little later and see if I’m right. In the meantime, if anyone can confirm that what I’ve described sounds likely (or unlikely) then please chime in so I can carry out any further checks while still apart. I’ll post a photo or three of the innards for reference.

RE: Mortar rake, brushing, hose, etc. This part of the house has old stone walls. We’ve removed the concrete render and pointing, and are now back to the lime pointing. It’s really crumbly and to quite a depth in places. So while I plan to use a brush in the main, I was planning to follow up with the blower to get to the parts other brushes cannot reach.

Thanks for the tip RE the Repair Café. That is something I came across quite recently… What a fantastic idea! I’ve got a Bluray player earmarked for when they run one close by on a day I’m not working. Perhaps the leaf blower may take a trip too, but hopefully I can or have got to the bottom of the problem. We’ll see…

Thanks again
Mortar rake in a grinder is really good. I would practice on an unobtrusive area first though as you can easily go off line, especially if the brick or stone is soft, you dont want to do that. Before repointing make sure you get it dust free, and use a stabilising solution if the surfaces are very porous or friable. This will ensure your new mortar bonds well and you dont have to do it all again in a couple of years.
 
Thanks @MikeK - but to be honest, I don't mind attaching the bag. I'm sure I can tie it out of the way and it won't really add any weight. It was more a case on not knowing as to why I didn't attach it in the first place. I had no idea it would need to be attached for the machine to work.

And thanks to you too @Fergie 307 - But all the major pointing removal has been done. What's left is soft, crumbly and dusty. A lot of it can be removed with a light finger prod. Getting the remaining pointing out isn't such an issue. But the left over dust between stones is much harder to get out - especially on account of the depth in places - which is what led me to think blowing it out would be best. As you suggest, I want to get it as dust free as possible, and a brush isn't working all the well, especially at depth. As for the re-pointing, we're getting a lime specialist in to do that...
 
One other question please...

The long black tubey bit comes in two sections. The machine says that they must be used together, but for what I have planned (blowing out the dust between stones) it would be a lot easier to use it with just one of the pieces attached, so that it is half the length. Can anyone think of a reason why that would be a bad idea?

Many thanks
 
One other question please...

The long black tubey bit comes in two sections. The machine says that they must be used together, but for what I have planned (blowing out the dust between stones) it would be a lot easier to use it with just one of the pieces attached, so that it is half the length. Can anyone think of a reason why that would be a bad idea?

Many thanks
Possible options I can think of:
1. It's to prevent the standard user from stooping down and putting their back out.
2. Focusing and/or fanning out of airflow.
3. Have the motor far enough away from the debris so it is less likely to blow around and get into the machine.

As a hint you can buy leaf blowers with practically no tube length but I'd never publicly advise anyone to go against manufacturers guidelines.
 
Back
Top