1st time installing drawers

[azk404]

Hello,

Ive made a built-in ply wardrobe and finally managed to get 8x drawers made but now comes time to installing them but I've never done it before so I am not 100% sure on the best way to make sure everything is spaced correctly and level.

There are 2 carcass each with 1x small draw and 3x larger at around 800mm wide (a bit wide I know).

I am using concealed full extension Blum draw sliders.

They will all have false fronts that I would like inset/flush with the front.

I was looking to buy the Kreg jig but I hear its not that great for heavier draws.

Any step by method, tips or great videos that explain it all would be great as the few I have found haven't been that helpful :/



Cheers
A

 

[RobinBHM]

I suggest you get the blum technical manual info and work out the drilling positions of the holes for the runners you are fitting

generally you need 1 hole at the front and 2 near the rear

make a simple jig -in plywood and drill the holes from that

I recommend your use euro screws for drawer runners which go in a 5mm dia hole

by the way, be careful with the dimensions -for inset drawers I would set the holes 2mm further back than the say. to get the drawers flush to the front, use a batten with protruding screws either side at the back to act as a stop -not required if thats a feature of the runners


as an aside, I use GTV drawer runners -much cheaper than Blum

example: 400mm full extension runners £12.70 incl VAT

https://www.solmer.co.uk/concealed-runners/soft-close-undermounting.html
the only thing is they arent 3D

dont think they are cheap rubbish, they are well made

 

[__jvc26]

Technical manual is your friend here. Blum also do a drilling jig for the runners which may be helpful (though comes with a cost!)

 

[azk404]

Technical manual, check. Look into DIY or paid, jig, check.

Other things Im not sure about is, is it better to start with the top or bottom draw?

Also, I worked out the rough hight of each draw in Sketchup but what's the best/easiest way to apply that the actual installation?

Cheers for the info

A

 

[azk404]

A new issue has just become apparent as I must of incorrectly interpreted the Blum draw measurements.

Ive noticed that if I were to screw the draw locking device to the front of the draw (before the false front is put on) the end of the runner that clips into the lock won't reach.

The red circle shows where is locks in and that's as far as I would be able to get.

Are there any possible solutions to make this 'workable' without cutting out new draws. Sorry, novice here teaching myself as I go

As I haven't cut the back notch out yet for the runner to pass through could I spin the draw back to front and use the clean front to attach the locking mechanism to, then just out the false front on that?

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I would make a simple jig to the dimensions of your cabinet and use that to trial fit the drawers. Does not need to be full height - just high enough to fit one door and square.

Could use MDF as cheap and fast as finish is no issue - just get dimension correct.

You will then understand precisely how things should fit together without making a mess of all your good work.

I've just done similar with a vanity unit for our cloakroom which needed modification to avoid plumbing behind the cabinet.

 

[RobinBHM]

Also, I worked out the rough hight of each draw in Sketchup but what's the best/easiest way to apply that the actual installation

Generally the drawer box needs to be a minimum of 5mm below top of drawer front and 20mm above bottom of drawer front. So drawer boxes need to be about 25mm smaller than drawer front.

 

[Kayen]

A new issue has just become apparent as I must of incorrectly interpreted the Blum draw measurements.

Ive noticed that if I were to screw the draw locking device to the front of the draw (before the false front is put on) the end of the runner that clips into the lock won't reach.

The red circle shows where is locks in and that's as far as I would be able to get.

Are there any possible solutions to make this 'workable' without cutting out new draws. Sorry, novice here teaching myself as I go

As I haven't cut the back notch out yet for the runner to pass through could I spin the draw back to front and use the clean front to attach the locking mechanism to, then just out the false front on that?

What length are your drawer runners and what length are your drawer sides? If you are using say 550 runners, your drawer sides should be 540 long - I think that's pretty standard amongst all undermount drawer runners.

If you have made the drawer sides equal to the runner length, then you should be able to move your front clips back by 10mm - providing you have the thickness of drawer bottom and depth of carcass to do so.

They are a bit of a mind**** until you get used to them. I would start at the bottom and work your way up - though I would suggest you pack the first runner up 3mm from the carcass bottom as the runners don't actually sit flat.

And another vote here for the GTV runners - good runners at a great price - though they don't carry the lifetime warranty that the brands do