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150mm circular saw blade for MFC?


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New member
18 Jun 2012
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Any recommendations guys?

I'm making some shelves to add into an Ikea stolmen setup so need decent edges on both sides as the shelves will be open ended and on show.

I'm borrowing a ryobi 150mm blade, 10mm bore cordless circular saw from a friend and plan on putting an new blade in but I'm struggling to find an obvious blade to buy. I've been doing quite a bit of reading on the subject and it looks like I need to find a negative rake blade with as many high alternative top bevel teeth as possible. Unfortunately they don't appear to exist in the size I need. I did find this one which, to my novice brain, would appear to be a reasonable option.

Trend CraftPro CSB/AP15036TB Aluminium / Plastic and Worktops Saw-blade 150mm x 36 Tooth x 10mm, Front bevel tooth form for a superior quality of cut, Micro-granular Tungsten Carbide Tipped to allow cutting of abrasive materials, Body is hardened and tempered to maintain trueness, Blades have a negative hook angle, Suitable for plastic and alloy, Alternate top bevel tooth form, Fine finish for plastic and aluminium, Anti-kickback with thin kerf for cordless saws.

What do you guys think?

While reading I saw several posts relating to the best way to make the cuts and the general advice seemed to vary between scoring the surface, taping the area before cutting, and sandwiching the MFC between sacrificial board. Everyone agreed that a straight edge would be a wise move to ensure a nice straight cut. I'm thinking my best bet would be to tape the surface and then sandwich it between securely clamped hardboard with a straight edge on top of that. Sound about right? Being a complete novice I'd also love some advice on this too if anyone has any they'd care to share.

thanks everyone!

cutting solutions

Established Member
6 Jan 2010
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Nr Soham Cambs
Lets deal with the finish problem first.
Whenever you cut any material with double sided veneer/coatings you will have a problem getting a clean cut on the underside as the ONLY way to really achieve that is with a scoring saw.
It is possible to do the taping and sacrificial things you mention but its not ideal.
To achieve the best finish possible I suggest you use a "triple chip" saw blade. Alternating teeth.....One tooth flat top the next has 1/3rd flat in the middle and 45 degree bevels on each side, then the next flat and on...... By using that type of blade you have much more area of tooth actually doing the cutting. more teeth should mean cleaner finish.

At 150 diameter I would suggest you try to get a 48 tooth blade or as near to that as possible and dont worry too much about the negative hook. the blade you highlight is probably not best suited. its designed for cutting alu/plastic and will have less clearance on the side of the tips......dont try getting too involved in this...its really for the pro's/industrial users who change blades for every different material they cut.

I have looked at what is available from the factory and sadly have to say I cant find a blade with the 10 mm bore you need. and cant find a suitable reducing bush!

by all means point at any blade you might be considering and I will give my humble opinion as to whether its suitable or not.

If its a one off job......you could try finding a friendly "local" joinery shop with a saw with a scoring unit and ask them to cut to size for you.....a few drink vouchers often suffices



Established Member
10 Aug 2010
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Hitchin, Hertfordshire
Sadly this won't help with the bore problem but I've just tackled four sheets of MFC with a brand new festool 48 tooth blade - triple chip. Top job with no chip out. I should say that that was with a guide rail which has a splinter guard for the top surface though.

Try contacting Atkinson Walker and seeing if they have one in that bore size.