1/ 4" trimmer router question

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Mel769

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Hi ive never used a router before and really could use one to cut some rebates for some garage shelves im making. My rebates need to be 20mm deep and about 25mm wide (rebating some scrap 4x2). I really dont want to buy a big 1/2" plunge router as it will likely not get used that much, so im considering a Makita 1/4" handheld/palm router/trimmer. I expect I would need a straight cutter for the rebates but since looking at various 1/4" router bits they all look a bit small. Can anyone recommend the largest width straight cutter bit to use with a 1/4" router; i will be using on soft wood.

Thanks for any response its a bit of a minefield for me !
 
Have used a 20mm straight bit in mine before though I tend toward smaller. Just one from a cheap trend set of about 30 bits.

Since you'll do it in 2 passes (per layer as it were) anyway you might as well aim for half ish the size you need.
 
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1/4" router will be fine - probably a 10mm cutter - just do it with several passes with straight bit - given your width/depth I would be doing multiple passes on width and depth.

And - take a look at the Katsu palm router/trimmer - it's a Makita copy to all intents and purposes - but at about £35 (Amazon is where I got mine)
 
Thanks for the responses, yep I will have a look at the Katsu trimmer, right now in fact.
 
I've got the Katzu one, after a load of people on a couple of facebook pages were raving about them. Mostly positive reviews, the only ones that weren't were from tool snobs. It will do what you want, just shallow cuts and a good quality bit will sort it.
 
Ive just purchased, £49.99 with the fence. Thats saved me a few quid thanks for the heads up. I notice that it has both 1/4" and 3/8" shanks, does the larger 3/8" hold larger bits ?
 
throw away the 3/8 collet. you wont be able to get bits.

the commonly available ones in the uk are 1/4", 8mm and 1/2". 8mm will fit in the 3/8 but not hold it safely and you dont ever want to find out.

for what you want, as much as I hate to admit it, I would get a couple of silverline bits from tool station. you will likely only need one but having a spare in case you blunt it (you wont) isnt a bad Idea.
 
throw away the 3/8 collet. you wont be able to get bits.

the commonly available ones in the uk are 1/4", 8mm and 1/2". 8mm will fit in the 3/8 but not hold it safely and you dont ever want to find out.

for what you want, as much as I hate to admit it, I would get a couple of silverline bits from tool station. you will likely only need one but having a spare in case you blunt it (you wont) isnt a bad Idea.

Thanks marcos
 
Most important thing if you have never used a router is to familiarise yourself with the difference between conventional and climb cutting. Have a practice on some scrap. There are loads of good articles and videos about this. Very important to understand this, both for the good of the tool, and more importantly your safety.
 
Trying to remember how to remember the way I picked up to not forget direction, based on Flemings left & right hand rules in electrical engineering.

So if brain is on the ball then:

Handheld use left hand, thumb and finger at right angle. With thumb pointing at workpiece the finger is the direction of travel.

Router table, do the same but use right hand.

Yell if I have forgoten!
 
Dont know about the katsu ones but if it comes with a little perspec deflector those closes of the opening in thew base, leave it in place The makits has one and i took it off for better excraction, only to find as you change hand grip position. you've a tendency to have your fingers in the opening
 
I keep on meaning to pick up a katsu, they do seem great value.

I always think of the direction of travel in terms of anti clock around the outside, clockwise around the inside (for handheld).

I think I'm right in saying that routing a groove you can go either direction as you are coming into contact with both sides at once.
 
I was playing with my katsu today, making a new jig for it!
Whilst they are currently showing 'Sold out' of a lot of things, the supplier to Amazon is
https://www.aimtools.co.uk/collections/routers?page=1and they are often cheaper going direct to them. I also have, and like, their chip collector
https://www.aimtools.co.uk/products/100449?_pos=2&_sid=c39d9d9ba&_ss=r
Hope this helps, they have all the katsu accessories.
good to know, pity they are sold out too (but showing as in stock via amazon for several pounds more!)
 
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I only recently got a trim router and while I find it very handy I was at first very aware of how easy it would be to do yourself some serious harm with one. For decades I was used to 2 handles and a dead man switch so that felt quite safe. You have both hands on the handles so pretty hard for anything to cut you.
With a trim router the switch stays on and likely you are holding it one handed so much more potential to harm yourself. I am not trying to be alarmist but a reminder to think carefully how you are going to make each cut.
Regards
John
 
I only recently got a trim router and while I find it very handy I was at first very aware of how easy it would be to do yourself some serious harm with one. For decades I was used to 2 handles and a dead man switch so that felt quite safe. You have both hands on the handles so pretty hard for anything to cut you.
With a trim router the switch stays on and likely you are holding it one handed so much more potential to harm yourself. I am not trying to be alarmist but a reminder to think carefully how you are going to make each cut.
Regards
John
If you have concerns regarding the Katsu power switch you could try a foot operated switch similar to this.
the foot switch is from Ebay UK for about £8.00View attachment 108174View attachment 108174
 
If you have concerns regarding the Katsu power switch you could try a foot operated switch similar to this.
the foot switch is from Ebay UK for about £8.00View attachment 108174View attachment 108174
The missing image
router foot switch.JPG
 
Where do people sit on the fact that the Katsu (and variants of it) is pretty much a direct copy of the Makita RT0700C? I appreciate there are subtle differences such as position of speed controls, plastic mouldings and the diecast but let's be honest, at first glance it's the same tool. I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that it is unlikely that Makita have licenced this design to cheaper branding.

Not being judgey just curious why this never seems to get the air time in discussion and the Katsu always seems to get a free pass on what looks like outright design copy. It is entirely possible that Makita have indeed licenced the design or the design doesn't even belong to them but for the purpose of my point, most people don't actually know that when buying a Katsu or recommending it.
 
Where do people sit on the fact that the Katsu (and variants of it) is pretty much a direct copy of the Makita RT0700C? I appreciate there are subtle differences such as position of speed controls, plastic mouldings and the diecast but let's be honest, at first glance it's the same tool. I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that it is unlikely that Makita have licenced this design to cheaper branding.

Not being judgey just curious why this never seems to get the air time in discussion and the Katsu always seems to get a free pass on what looks like outright design copy. It is entirely possible that Makita have indeed licenced the design or the design doesn't even belong to them but for the purpose of my point, most people don't actually know that when buying a Katsu or recommending it.
the similarities are bizarre, I've read that katsu are / were in fact the manufacturers of the makita router and the the katsu machine has the makita details on the warrantee. As I don't own a katsu I couldn't tell you first hand
 
the similarities are bizarre, I've read that katsu are / were in fact the manufacturers of the makita router and the the katsu machine has the makita details on the warrantee. As I don't own a katsu I couldn't tell you first hand
I don't have a Katsu either (although I have the Makita) but the comparison reviews seem to suggest it is unlikely the two units are sourced form the same manufacturer given the subtle difference in design and overall quality. This would suggest different tooling and different manufacture processes.
 

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