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Or by JK did you mean Jim Kingshott? He shows it in "Sharpening, The Complete Guide".

Yes, The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking, which I referenced in the blog post. That's where I got the tool rest.

Good, I'm glad I got it right this time! I did indeed find it fast, since just a few minutes of grinding is sufficient for a number of honings, each of which is really fast. The chisel was very smooth through the pine end grain. I'll do a few more chisels this way so I have a working set to...

Since I got Mark Rhodes' sharpening method wrong on my previous post, here is a blog post which I believe emulates his method more accurately. http://www.closegrain.com/2012/09/hollow-ground-duosharp-sharpening.html

Nice! They're fun to use once you get the skill down. It's a bit like learning to plane all over again since they feel awkward in the hand initially. Here's a blog post (in 2 parts) I did 2 years ago on learning to use woodies...

Part 2 follow-up blog post on this, showing how to get paper-slicing sharp right off the stones, no stropping needed: http://www.closegrain.com/2012/08/double-bevel-paring-chisel-sharpening_24.html

Sheer pig-headed obstinacy? It's a learning goal, not something I expect to achieve in a few days. As Mark points out, I'm getting good results on the pine, so why bother? But I believe I can do better over time. I find that I seem to make incremental improvement every few months. In another...

Here's a blog post on more conventional sharpening using double-bevel: http://www.closegrain.com/2012/08/double-bevel-paring-chisel-sharpening.html I still don't have perfect control for flat bevels, but I continue to practice.

Ok, I didn't ask that clearly. I didn't really mean "how long" in terms of actual time, but more in terms of what makes you decide, given the abrasiveness of a given piece of wood, that you need to resharpen? Is there some feedback you get from the quality of the cut, the appearance of the...

Yes, I've seen your articles on using paste, I've been considering giving that a try. I was indeed tempted to use it on MDF, so I'll skip that. I've been hesitant because I was afraid I would just use it up too quickly, instead trusting that the diamonds bedded in plates would last longer. I...

And meanwhile, I've updated this post to indicate that I didn't get it right, as well as adding Derek's warning about not confusing this with Japanese tool single-bevel sharpening. Hopefully I'll get it right when I cover hollow-grinding!

You bring up an interesting question. Paul, how long do you go before resharpening? I've seen people recommend frequent resharpening before it turns into a major job. There's always the balance between taking up too much time constantly interrupting the work to resharpen, and waiting so long...

And yet it's the subject of constant vexation for beginners just learning the skills! Thanks for the info on hollow grinding, I'll integrate that into my post on it. That was actually the first method I ever learned, from David Marks' TV show "Wood Works". But I didn't have access to a grinder...

Yes, I use one, and it's fast, similar to an 80-grit sandpaper but without wearing out the surface. Faster than a grinder? Maybe not, but still, you can do heavy reshaping in 5 minutes, so it's a nice alternative. I also find the particles of the metal swarf heavy enough that I try to remember...

Meanwhile, for those who truly object to the single-bevel shown here (and the previous convex methods I've shown), two more upcoming will be double-bevel on waterstones, and hand-cranked hollow-ground on (not sure which abrasive I'll use). Then the menu will be complete! Or at least as complete...

Hi Derek, Yes, I'm aware of the two-layer construction of laminated Japanese blades. Jim Kingshott's book "Sharpening" does a nice job of describing how a single bevel is used on them because the bulk of the material is softer steel that abrades quickly, and only a thin layer of hard steel...

Since most people think they can't saw a straight line, I love to have them rip a 1" strip off a 4'-long board. It's a combination of several things already mentioned here: 1. Mainly work with the saw about 45 degree angle. 2. If it starts to go off track, don't twist the handle, drop it down...

I know some of you chaps here are so bored with sharpening you've probably keeled over asleep on your keyboards, but for those still awake, here's a blog post with video where I tried out Mark Rhodes' sharpening method as he described it on another thread...

Ok, good, so we're using consistent technique here. Definitely want to avoid slavery in favor of quick efficiency! The soft crushability of pine is why I like to use it as an end grain test block. A duller edge will get more crushing of the fibers, while a sharper edge will get more clean...

Ok, the results of my highly scientific test (being a scientifical cove constantly on scientifical quest): using a pair of DMT Duo-Sharp plates (Black/Blue=Extra-Coarse/Coarse, and Red/Green=Fine/Extra-Fine), I initially reshaped the bevel on a couple of chisels on the Black using side-to-side...