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Thank you all for the replies. It seems like a loophole to me that you could have planning permission to build a 20 house estate, build one of them and then stop, but have planning for the others for eternity. Likewise with two completely different build projects on a property - you could have...

But surely this sort of thing is written in law? It strikes me as odd that someone could build something that got PP decades ago, simply because they did something else at the time that was part of the same permission. I will try and ask them when they eventually open :)

When you get planning permission, you have to start work within a few years, or the permission is rescinded. What happens if the planning permission is for two separate bit of work (say a kitchen extension, and a loft conversion), and you complete on one bit and have it signed off (building...

Thanks. But should I get it done now, or do I need to leave it in the house for a few weeks first?

I'm planning to take my oak to a local timber merchant, who can plane/thickness it for £45 an hour, and I assume it won't take very long. It's been stored in my workshop/shed standing vertically (I know), so presumably I should store it flat in the house for a while before cutting and building...

Yes, fair point - we're talking 1.35m between cabinets, and 2m tapered down to 1.22 behind the cabinets. I'm just not that confident in the thin oak that I'll be gluing together without any biscuits or tongue & groove. Thanks Steve, I did think of being able to rout the steel into a worktop a...

Thank you for the advice. I could yet change my mind, but I'll try and explain the thinking behind the current plan. The steel is not particularly expensive (I'd need 2 x 3m lengths for £25), plus some joining pieces (£25). The reason I like the steel is that it's just 25mm thick, and I'd like...

Thank you very much for the suggestion and taking the time to post a diagram. It might be a bit too deep. I could make it more like 86 cm, which would be up to the architrave, but not around it. My current desk is 150 x 70, with a couple of centimeters at the back for cables. It's not quite...

I thought 2 metres was quite a lot, even if I was using a 40mm worktop?

That's a very good question :) The middle window isn't even a proper window, some silly person replaced 2 nice sash windows with a piece of glass. I'm having to sort that out, and my current thought is to make the left most window open (top and bottom) so I can do it without stretching over the desk...

Ok, decision made. I've just spoken to the company that make the steel tubing - on their website you can see some round tubing where connectors go around the tube and don't break the integrity of the tube, but the technical support assure me that the plastic connectors (which are metal inside)...

And here is the plan, to scale. The 4 squares would be the support legs. The top left leg is not in the perfect position, so as to allow room for the PC. The steel frame I'm imagining would be rectangular, and the back left corner would simply hover over the back of the PC. Perhaps the best...

Here's a picture of the room as is. Please ignore the old cupboard :) I've just put some damp proofing on the wall, it needs plaster, skirting and radiator to go back. I intend for the desktop to sit on the window sill (probably with a couple of mm of foam underneath, to bring it to the same...

I'm favouring using what I have as it would be nice to find a use for it, and if it works (I'm not particularly confident in my 'skills') it could look more interesting than using a worktop. Stretcher plates sound like a good idea, thanks. I'm wondering if ply if the most rigid base option...

Ah yes I see. Yes I'd like to put some steel tubing underneath (and a couple of cabinets will also be able to offer support). I understand that the steel is plenty strong enough, the problem with the steel is that adding more normally means cutting it to use their plastic connectors, which would...

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Oo that's a good idea - I could put slots in the ply, so I can screw the oak down but allow it to move. My holes for cable will actually have to come forward a bit, as the last 8cm of the desk will be over the window sill, and then in front of the there's a...

Thank you for the help. I quite like the idea of making it out of the old oak I have, but you're probably right. The oak I have isn't in the best condition (having risen from a damp floor). I've just had a go at sanding one piece and it looks good in places, but not so good in others. I do have...

The reason I thought of fixing the front is that that's where you sit and touch, and you're want it to feel sturdy (it's not a 40mm chunk like a worktop) - I thought I'd just allow 10mm gap at the back and fit something akin to a small upstand over it, so the wood can move underneath. Maybe the...

Thank you for the quick replies! That's why I ask here :) What stops oak kitchen worktops moving much, is it just than they're not that wide (60cm ish) and the wider breakfast bars aren't constrained? Yeah I guess so, although not ideal. Do you think any of the options I've mentioned would need...

Please give me your opinions on my options for a new desk top. I'm making a desk to fit in a small bay window. The bay has 5 sides, shaped like 5 sides of an octagon, so the desk will be like a rectangle with 2 corners cut off. The bay is 2m between the window sills. I'd like the desktop to...