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Yep, it does, but it's not - the pulleys are not 'toothed', they are grooved - to match the grooves on the belt - but this is hard to see from my pics!

Thanks everyone - I have now cracked it! Thought I would post these images to help anyone else who comes across this issue. As you can see, getting the drive belt over the wheels is nigh on impossible - by just stretching the belt: I could not even get it started over the lip, using a long...

Yep, your right! Reckon this afternoon I will get the pulley off and see what's possible. Gulp! :(

Many thanks for your reply, but I did try to remove the cutter block pulley - its appears to be a friction fit onto a keyed shaft and does not want to move. If I use a 'puller' to get it off, I reckon I'm never going to get it back on again - whilst simultaneously overcoming the pull of the belt...?

Hi folks, Recently melted my CT330 thicknesser drive belt (!) and wondered if anyone knows how to change it? I have the new drive belt and am asking because it does not appear remotely straightforward - I have been Googling for days all to no avail. I have also tried Axminster, who are 'going...

Thanks for all your help folks, I'll have another go and see If I can beat it!

Hi Jason, sorry I made another mistake in my original post: the dovetail cut is just over 3/4" deep, with virtually the whole cutter shaft in the collet. The cut is 1 1/2" long, into the end of a leg - to receive a top stretcher rail. Another way of doing this would be to use the traditional...

I have tried reducing the router speed, but I'm now wondering if it could be the router mounting in the table. I have two table setups, the current one (in daily use) - which does leave a lot to be desired and a Festool version. If my technique is ok (hog out the waste with a straight cutter...

Hi Bob / Chem, sorry for the cock-up - my mistake, been working in loads of metric and imperial measurements all day.... :-( It's a 1/2" shank on the bit (not a 12mm as I said previously) and 1/2" collet on the router. I did wonder whether to use my 'slotting jig' to guide the cut - it just...

Hi Chems, thanks for getting back - it's a 12mm shank, 14 degree, 22mm width - at widest point

Hi, I am trying to cut some 1 1/2" deep, large dovetails into the end grain of a 3" sq. table leg - in hard european oak. Simple enough I thought, so I hogged out the majority of the waste with a straight cutter, on the router table - no problems there... Swapped the straight cutter for the...

Thanks for getting back, but this is not quite what I'm after, I am after a design like this: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axmi ... -21252.htm In this vice there is a metal tommy bar, though a turned metal 'hub' - which is basically one end of the lead screw - it is just this part I...

Hi folks, My first post as am new to this forum - hope someone can help me out? I am trying to fond a supplier for a vice screw - with a twist (pun intended :-) ) - I need one with a metal head and tommy bar - or no 'head at all - just the lead screw and nuts... Any ideas? I have...