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The thing with communal set squares as supplied by FE colleges and similar is that they're generally no more than slightly interesting pieces of wood and metal with neither edge of the blade at a right angle to the stock. As to being taught use of the square I'd guess if you'd been taught to...

Well, that sort of explains it. You were taught what I think of as unusual or unconventional practices. The attached video link pretty much demonstrates what I was taught, still use and have taught to scores of learners over the decades. I could criticise the demonstrator for a bit of sloppiness...

Mark, I appreciate the reply and the kind words, but I think there's been a misunderstanding. I use a set square (some prefer try square) to square lines across a piece of wood by holding the brass face on the inside edge of the stock against a straight edge of the wood and strike a line against...

Can you please explain Jacob's errors for me, Mark? After reading your comment I've double checked what Jacob's written and I can't spot any errors. My use of set squares and any tweaking pretty much mirrors what he's suggested. His tip, for example, about filing the outside edge of the blade...

I don't doubt your experience in finding that the material doesn't seem to be brittle. I'd guess it's possible, perhaps likely, that the processed material you're working with is actually relatively brittle compared to examples of the same wood species that haven't been put through the high heat...

Forgot to answer this earlier, but: For rough sawn stock I calculate the the rough sawn board requirement that will yield the finished dimensions. For example, ten pieces at a finished size of 800 mm X 44 X 18 (31-1/2" X 1- 3/4" X 3/4") will come out of ten pieces of rough timber 36” X 2” X 1”...

It smells burnt because it, of course, is a product of a high heat treatment of timber, commonly pine or fir, but also hardwoods, to impart various characteristics such as colour change, reduced movement in response to changes in moisture content, but the big characteristic is improved...

I know your question has been answered already and similar questions have been asked here before. I'd call what Scotty's doing is creating a rod, and when I lived in the US I learnt what I knew as a rod was called a story stick. It's always seemed simple enough to me, i.e., rod, story stick...

No, your expectations are not too high. You've already emailed the supplier you say, but I hope you included the photographs you showed in your opening post. It would be impossible, in my opinion, for the supplier to claim that what they sent to you was of acceptable quality. I imagine they will...

Something similar to below would work with the moulding intersection either scribed as in the rather rough and ready example below in softwood, or mitred as in the walnut mirror at the bottom. Depending upon the precise layout of the joint and any groove, if included, on the same edge as the...

No, there will always be changes in the width of those pieces of wood in service in response to seasonal changes in relative humidity and temperature, although the amount of seasonal dimensional change will become less pronounced after a few years. Slainte.

Probably not if the idea is to ensure no gaps ever developing between solid wood pieces as per the images you've included in your post. The end result is likely to be something like below, but with larger gaps, which will change over the seasons. The fact that the examples below are two...

Perpendicular, but inserted from the other direction to the one you've indicated if at all possible, i.e., screw through from the back face of the vertical member into the angled brace. This method is possible if the bracket is manufactured prior to it being attached to the wall. Slainte.

Sarcasm. Of course. You say you are a professional, and indicate that it might be good for me "to see the things we are willing to do to get a job done :LOL:" That doesn't fill me with confidence. It suggests you're willing to cut corners and compromise safety in a production environment. Then...

I suppose I should concede that your extensive professional experience outranks my amateur and ill-informed burbling. Sorry I spoke and I'll be mindful of my inexperience in the future, especially my lack of experience in the use of woodworking machinery, when proffering advice to fellow...

Hmm, Pete? Whilst that's a technique or practice favoured in your part of the world I'm afraid it's the sort of thing that tends to fly like a lead balloon over here. When I moved to and lived in Texas for a period and came across the method you pointed us towards I remember thinking to myself...

Just bear in mind that whatever you use to seal end grain, whether it be paint, PVA or emulsified sealing wax designed for the job such as End Seal you're still almost certain to get radial splitting of one sort or another such as star shake or a simple (or double) heart shake. Being short logs...

Looking at the image you posted below my thoughts turned immediately to how a spindle moulder plus a rebate block might be the ideal choice. If the moulder didn't have a tilting spindle an angled sled could be made to present the wood, which would work well if the stepped rebates you need are...

Almost certainly that, the essentially trapezoid and thick zebrano pieces being wetter when the item was made, then drying out with the subsequent cupping of the zebrano(concavity upwards) being stronger than the box lid sides can resist. Note also that the glue bond has broken and zebrano is...

I see now. Thanks for the better picture. In truth it still seems the catches are sort of redundant or not needed, but I can understand you trying to meet what I assume is your client's wishes. Slainte.