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Interesting, thanks. I hope to borrow a Makita cordless inflater from a friend in the village, not sure if that'll help, but certainly easier to try than trying to use a floor standing hand pump against the wall.

Yes, but the pressure of the water concentrated onto the pin at the back of the valve..?

I'm still thinking about this - I think the problem might be that the diaphragm is pressing on the back end of the valve. I may try and extension piece with its own valve, and remove the core from the vessel..

No pressure entails a total drain down, as the expansion vessel is on the ground floor, and there are 8 or 9 rads upstairs. As I said, I want to change some trvs as well, so I think we'll limp along until the weather changes.

I took the valve core out - zero water, but if I poke a matchstick up the valve outer, I can feel a springy resistance, which I guess is the diaphragm. I put in a new valve core, opened a radiator bleed valve, and tried again with the pumping. Nothing. Is it possible that I need to ensure the...

It's a Frankenstein boiler. Vaillant Eco Max combi, but the hot water side blanked off, so it's running as a system boiler. This was probably because the house has solar water heating as well. It's not ideal, as it means you can't set different temperatures for the CH and the HW, but it is what...

I should have mentioned that this is an external expansion vessel, so I'm not sure the boiler tails will help with isolation.

I'll take a closer look, see if I can find an isolator valve. It's a horrible installation, giant water tank with bad access to pipework behind it.

+1 for citric acid.

I have spare valves and the removal tool, so will maybe try the "loosen it a little" thing.

I decided that the expansion vessel on my CH system could use a bit of pumping, as the water pressure in the system swings wildly from not much to a lot as the temperature increases. Attached the pump - nothing - can't get any air in. Tried pressing the pin on the Schrader valve - solid. Can...

You're table saw will handle a 150mm cut? It must be a big one... Even my little Inca bandsaw will just about manage a log that size, but I'd have to cut from both sides on the table saw, and I'd don't think I'd ever attempt such a thing.

I know this is not answering your question, but when I sold a shed on FB marketplace 5 years ago, the guys that took it away used a reciprocating saw to good effect. It was a cordless DeWalt, as it happens, but I expect any make would work, with a wood and metal blade.

I already use them for IPA, think I've bought bicarb and citric acid and epsom salts too.

Good price. I probably pay half that much for 500ml. On the other hand, I'm 71 with a triple bypass. It'd have to be heirloom quality IPA if I bought 5l.

Cedar cladding is unlikely to keep rodents out, in my opinion. I'd leave the 70mm gap, that is, after all, one of the reasons for the bricks, isn't it? To keep the cladding out of the damp.

In my humble opinion, meths and IPA would be equally effective. I tend to have IPA on hand, but I expect meths is cheaper.

I was lucky in that I ordered the tyres in America, and had them brought over by one of my numerous American brothers in law. It was a lot cheaper than way. That was at least 15 years ago, so things may have changed.

I've done it on my Inca. Bought orange urethane tyres, soaked in hot water, and used a couple of Irwin quick clamps to help with fitting. No glue. Expected it to be a giant hassle, but surprisingly easy.

I'm surprised. You seem to know a lot about this stuff, but light and RF are essentially electromagnetic waves in the real world. And I never said that light was the same as WiFi... I was, however, being flippant.