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Cool. Yes, as I said there will most likely be close to 100mm between the insulation and deck with air vents in front and rear soffits.

I don't think that's an option!

OK I see. Is a vapour barrier also necessary or will the foil side of the Kingspan perform that function? Obviously any exposed joints would need to be sealed with foil tape....

Unfortunately the roof is already built so I cant do that! But I think I'm ok ventilation-wise, I have vents installed in the front and rerar soffits and the excternal cladding is also mounted to 2x1 battens leaving an air gap that also extends up to the roof.

Quick question guys.... Recently completed the main structure of my new shed/workshop. I've now moved on to the insulation and have a question about the roof. It's basically a cold roof design, 6x2 joists with 18mm OSB deck and felt on top. I was planning to use 50mm Kingspan between the...

:dunno:

. I've been looking into corrugated sheet for the roof, but it may be cost prohibitive. I'm also not sure of the process for installing it on a flat roof, particularly the finish on the ends and sides. Any advice here would be appreciated....

Thanks for the in depth reply, Fitz. I reckon I'll go with - stud work no insulation, osb, building wrap, gap, cladding. This will save me a few quid and allow for the option of adding insulation at a later date. My workshop will get only casual use and won't be heated so I think this will work...

So from what I gather I need breather membrane under the cladding whether I decide to insulate or not. Then a vapour barrier would be needed if I was to insulate the walls and ceiling and this would go over the insulation. OSB would fulfil this role. That correct?

Yes I’ve read that the high glue content of the OSB fulfils the role of a vapour barrier.

Hi Fitzroy, I had'nt planned to insulate the walls just now but may in the future. How does this affect the decision on installing a membrane? I've also seen videos on Youtube where people have used 250 Micron DPM to sheath the OSB then placed the cladding over that.

Thanks James, Yes I had a feeling 4x2 wouldnt quite cut it!

Hi guys, Will be starting to build a new workshop in a week or two (14x12ft, all timber construction) and would love some feedback in what I have planned... The back garden will be fully slabbed by then which should provide a solid and level base to start with. Subframe will be 4x2 treated...

Hi folks, have'nt posted here much but hoping you guys would be able to give some advice. SWMBO wants wood flooring in our living room and hall and I am looking at various ways of doing it. She wants normal pine T+G floorboards to match our upstairs flooring, but this has to be layed over a...

Donnie Darko could get into that thing without having to take his hat off....

Just to say thanks for all the feedback and help, and it looks like the problem is sorted now. There seemd to be some major shrinkage between a few boards as well as a few knot holes. These have all been sealed up and it all looks ok so far. Had a couple of really heavy showers sinced I fixed...

Earlier I examined the boards and found one or two loose knots which I filled. I also filled all the nail holes in the area of the "leaks". Does'nt seem to be any large gaps and all the boards are the correct way up. Some rain does run down onto the baords as there is'nt much of an overhang on...

T+G clading with a slightly round profile on the outer face. Like this...

No, the green membrane is a cloth-like, perforated material.

Here are some pics... This is the general area, I have removed the mdf sheeting and the plastic barrier, you can see the membrane between the studs and outer cladding. I have circled where the damp patches were occuring, as it has dried out now. There was some moisture also along the top...