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On further reflection, I agree the drawer slides are a bad idea. Even the Accuride ones will rack a little bit. I think I need to get a bit of nylon strip to ride in a slot either side, and creep up on the measurement to take the play out of it. I will post photos when there is something to...

Thanks. When you say 'aligned well for the lifting handle' - which lifting handle do you mean? I have this one: Re. slides, I'm pretty sure they are Accuride DZs as thats what we usually order at work, but I will check.

:cool: awesome, indeed - not many that spell it correctly! I think I have the way ahead...I took the risk and cut the springs out of the Titan today, and all of the other bits on the base (turret, plastic wingnuts) to be able to tuck the base right up close to the body as much as I could, and...

That's useful, cheers. I don't mind reaching under the table for height adjustment at all, as long as it's easy and I'm not fighting against stiff springs. But the bit change does look difficult. I did mess around with a model of a similar idea I found on youtube - although the one I found used...

This is great, thank you

The Rutlands lift/motor looks great, it's just a long way out of my budget as a weekend warrior. That lumberjack looks very similar to the Titan I have. However, on taking some measurements this morning, it seems the hole patten in the Titan (104.8 x 67.7) is very different to the smaller trim...

It's only decorative - fitting some mild steel angle to some rustic furniture pieces and then using some brass screws (that will be aged somehow) to contrast to the blackened mild steel. I would spray lacquer the steel to prevent it rusting but leave the natural rolled steel appearance.

Interesting. My cutting technique is pretty much as you say - sliding towards the fence. For some reason, I tend to score a line all the way back along the board (front to back) by maybe 10mm, then lift up, slide back to the front and cut the rest front>back full depth. Not really sure why I do...

I'd never actually touched a scaffold board before this week, it's been 50% birch ply offcuts that I get given and 50% DIY store CLS (building stud walls, etc). I don't think it's had any non-new timber on it before this weekend and it's only occasional weekend use, so I'm a bit dissapointed...

This makes sense - I could get one of the 15gbp aluminium router plates from amazon and just drill it to fit. This is a great idea thanks. A platform is no problem. The airflow would be more challenging, it appears either the intake or exhaust for the stator is on the top of the router, but I...

Great! Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. I do have a nice Bailey no 5 but it's fairly blunt at the moment and I'm a beginner at sharpening. I would like to get to this at some point, but until I'm better at sharpening, I reckon fill+sand might be my short term. I also have no idea what angle the bevel is...

I need to get myself set up with a router table for some upcoming projects. I've got the screwfix Titan router (TTB591ROU) that I've used handheld for a while. I have an island-style workbench made from birch ply, and the fence of my dewalt table saw will flip around and serve as the fence for...

Hello, I have a project where I'd like to use mild steel angle iron and countersunk holes for brass countersunk slotted woodscrews. I know that in brass and mild steel together would in theory galvanically corrode where the screw head sits against the face of the countersink. If I put a little...

Hello, I've started making a few things from reclaimed scaffold boards, and for once, I'd like to make the end grain of softwood look decent. Usually when I'm using softwood, it's to build something functional so I've never been bothered by the below. But for various reasons, I am using...