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Perhaps there’s another tool out there that could do it? I could maybe trim it almost flush by using the multi tool on top of a spacer where it’s doesn’t matter if it’s burning and then clear out the last bit a little neater and hit it with a sander to finish off

Glass has already been ordered, in my head it’s wouldn’t be too bad with a multi tool but I suppose it’s a relatively large depth for it to get through. I was hoping a flush cut blade would remain pretty straight. Maybe I could test it on something else first. I could keep the current rebate...

Thanks for taking the time for a well thought out response, the diagram is much appreciated! You’re right, it’s a 12mm high rebate and I could do as suggested, but in my mind this is more work than removing the rebate entirely and fixing a new piece in? Thickness of the unit has got to be 28mm...

That side of the room is being converted into a sauna so needs a thick insulated glass

oops double post

It’s due to the thickness of the glass that’s going in (28mm) there isn’t enough depth for it with the existing return

Ah yes I mean the rebate. The new piece of glass is 28mm thick so if I set it with the rebate still there I’ll have no space to use any sort of trim peice/beading on the outside. It would be a lot easier if I could leave it as is! Alternatively I could just try to cut the rebate back a bit but...

Hey! Good point on the building regs, although it’s a bathroom so can’t see anything about opening window being required, just a form of ventilation which it will have. Happy to be educated otherwise though!

Got a hardwood double opener window that I’m going to change to a fixed window. The plan is to remove the existing return and then trim the new piece of insulated glass in either side with matching strips of wood and then silicone in. I’m thinking of the best way to remove the existing return...