https://www.toolboxbuzz.com/head-to-head/best-cordless-oscillating-multi-tool-head-to-head
I went for a Milwaukee m12as it is good and more compact than the 18v tool. It has been great. I’m mostly have Makita m18 but don’t like their multi tool.
Does not look 2 years old to me. Get the water pressure tested and I'd change this valve to a new one.
If you have a fill loop pressure gauge you should be able to get an idea from that but keep the valve to the heating closed
I have the battery version that came with 1/4 and a 8mm ring. Mostly use 1/4 bit as I have them and have a few 8mm when larger shank is useful eg bigger cutter or spiral cutters
Another vote for Bora Centipede 4x2, and MFT top. Easy to store and easy to setup. I have a benchdog hinge and square but for me I think parallel guides would have been more useful than the hinge. I 3printed the bits for parallel guides based on steel runners and they are good enough.
I looked at the upgrade offer £20 and then looked at my square and considered upgrading. I think the clasp will be better but decided the cams are okay for me. May be a bit slower
I bought a new one off ebay, setup a search and a new one popped up fairly quickly after the bearings in my old one needed replacing. Replacing the bearings is on my list of things to do.
I have a dewalt 625,a trend 1/2 , corded bosch 1/4 and the makita battery trim router. The trim router gets the most use easier to track mount and do a quick job. I leave the 1/2" for bigger jobs or woodrat
I built a MFT slab using the Bora legs - I find it great fairly light and easy to setup. Pretty similar to this but I bought a benchdog Rail hinge and fence.
Ground does need to be roughtly flat though
I use mostly benchdog uk , but have had some from aliexpress all very good and tight.
Recently I have started 3d printing some - they are also fine 20mm (20.0mm) Bench Dog Set with Levers, Cams, Stops, etc by CabbitCastle
The bed needs to be level - distance from nozzle end consistent using the screws. Many printers also have a autolevel capability which builds a model of the bed versus the nozzle position and then compensates in software for the diferences. The S1 pro can do this and so can many other...
I have a CR10 Smart Pro which is basically a larger version of the Ender S1 Pro. The S1 Pro may be easier and cheaper than upgrades. Bambu or Voron seem like the next step for me but the CR10 does what I need - extra spped would be very handy for big prints