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It's being pumped Dave, I've read about different grades and now have no idea which I should use

Thanks Paul, c25 then? The problem with c25 and c35 is they say its not suited to power floating, is that the same as using a vibrating screeder?

The company delivering my concrete have suggested Gen3 for my raft, is this suitable considering at least 50mm will be left exposed. I've read that it's not suited to being left to the elements, any opinions or advice welcome.

For now it's 7.2m to stay within the permitted development of 30m² internal floor area....well nearly

Well I got my pad dug out with a fair amount of help from my nephew who does landscaping. Just waiting for some time to go and pick up some boarding to make my form work with before getting a load of type 1 to whacker plate down. I'll book the concrete ready for a few weeks time when I know...

I've got a mini digger booked for Saturday but I'm having second thoughts on my area of 7.2 x 4.8m (just a shade over 30m² internal area) it looks quite square but that works well with sheet sizes. I'd go 8.4 long but without planning that's pushing it I think.

I intend a raft so no foundations for blocks

I have been lead to believe that fibre reinforced isn't for slab strength but surface strength, I aim to set my mesh towards the bottom of my raft. I also thought the MOT around the raft helped with drainage and aopporting the slab

As the weather is looking good I intend hiring a mini digger next weekend to dig out for my type 1 mot sub base, I have a few questions however. As the ground is pretty solid clay I thought 100mm mot, blinding sand, membrane followed by 100-120mm concrete pad (7.2 x 4.8m) my main query is...

Would thompsons water seal work?

Thanks Fitz, that's exactly the issue. I'll take a look at the link as I want the raft to be my finished floor with 3 courses of brick then my studwork

I'm getting close to the point of starting this now but still don't see how the dp membrane has continuity after the raft shuttering is removed, there will be a gap between it and where my 3 courses of engineering bricks end. Am I at risk of driving rain finding a way between the raft and brick...

I love my 675 but don't ride it enough, I also have an xs650b that I'm lightly restoring, it smells so good.

Yes, following MikeG's advice he suggests that mesh must be 50mm from either top or bottom of the raft and NOT centre as it has no benefit, I presume it as its neither under stretch or compression but in a neutral position. This dictates that a raft has to be over 100mm thick.

A raft is really the only way to go I believe, I can't lose height and having a large step up in makes getting machinery and motorbikes in a farce. I'm thinking 125mm thickened at the edges with A142 mesh laid on an mot base with blinding and membrane. 3 courses of brick or block then build my...

This is why I've not settled on a method yet, one person says piers will be fine the next that they are totally unsuitable

I'm also sure I read MikeG say that piers were really only suitable for workshops up to a certain size which fell well below my 7 x 5m

I've highlighted the main problem with piers is height lost and lack of longevity. One of my bikes is modern, 2012 Triumph Daytona 675, the other however is a 1975 XS650B that I'm restoring.

Still no further along with my plans, I had thought I may change to a pier or ground screw type base but I'm really not sold on the longevity or whether a chipboard base will be hard wearing enough should I pull my motorbike in to work on. The step up in would pose a problem there too so a...

Well having spoken to my local planning folk it transpires the ditch the other side of my hedge is my boundary, said hedge is hugely deep so well over 2m from my planned pad