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Great thanks

Is it recommended to seal the concrete floor before laying the dpm and insulation?

A friend of mine bought a relatively newly built house and I was helping him move some stuff into the loft. It was wet inside and we discovered his bathroom extractor fan was sucking straight into the loft space.

Hi Johnny, it is going to be used as a garden room as opposed to a workshop so will have furniture, TV etc in. I was under the impression rightly or wrongly that it would be cooler in summer and warmer in winter once insulated. Is that not likely to be true?

I'm pretty confident of the water tightness of the wall and render so I wonder if this will be helpful or not. What do you think please?

Hi, no petulance here from me. I'm just trying to weigh up the different opinions and advice which seem to be complete opposites. Hindsight is a marvellous thing and I obviously did not know what I have since been told about a number of things

the difference being that it's not going to be occupied anywhere near as often as our house. I want to minimise any issues but also need to balance that with cost and fitting in with what is already there as I don't want to damage render that was quite expensive. it won't be occupied overnight...

Can anyone shed (excuse the pun) any more light on my best course of action please? I will need to order the materials probably Tuesday latest to get it in time for my week off work as that's my only opportunity to get consecutive days working on it.

Unfortunately it's fully rendered now so without cutting a hole through the wall and render 😱 extraction isn't really an option.

Some more pics in case it helps anyone with any fresh ideas 👍🏻

I need to order the gear prob Monday or Tuesday at the latest to get it for my window of holiday from work so I'm hoping I have a definite plan by then. It's definitely a minefield. Thanks for all of the info and points of view so far it's definitely helped me understand more about it.

I can however get away with 75 mm between rafters and 25 mm right across the underside of them

I'm not comfortable with drilling into the render barring my only other part which is my gutter down pipe which will only be small holes. Can you please let me know what you need for calcs and I'll send you a pm when I can get the relevant info. If the render becomes damaged it WILL end in divorce 😖

I think I might be able to get away with 75 mm between rafters and 25 mm below rafters but will need to measure. Increase in cost is fairly small. If I thought I could drill through the render and block successfully would several of these do?

Thank you. The reason for not venting low level is the building has just been parex rendered at a decent cost and I'd really not like to damage it. I need to see when I'm in from work as to whether I can put any insulation under the rafters as I'm not sure whether I will have the height once the...

I do have a double trickle vent above the french doors. My end window has two openers which can be locked on night vent. There is no way I can vent at lower level that I can think of . I'll be using PIR boards taped and foamed with vapour layer inside before cladding. Kingspan states a minimum...

This was the make up before boarding.

Thanks, I have seen some of his videos. I'm more concerned about the walls to be honest Robin as i think if I have to I can insulate between and below the battens and feel confident of sealing off well and still retain enough ceiling height. ive seen the one where he states that fitting cross...

Although I am pretty confident of the water tightness of the block and render. So not concerned of penetrating damp. If there's no more likelihood of interstitial condensation on the walls with it against the wall than spaced off then i would prefer to keep the internal space.

Yeah I can't ventilate the bottom unfortunately as the render is now on and don't want to disturb it. So maybe better to insulate direct against the wall and seal the roof void off then. My head is battered with this