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Use toy paint

When people stop resurrecting 18-month old thread

Remember it’s not using the whole length of the slot to take the load, you can put a heavy radius on the slot and leave clearance it’s still strong

I have western red cedar planters, cost a fortune in wood so used square plastic pots initially inside but they were a bit small then 2 years ago made aluminium boxes to go inside that fit perfectly and drain out holes away from the wood. All material was delivered pre-cut which was cheaper than...

The gap you need depends on the ply thickness plus paint, it’s unlikely to shrink/grow a lot, just measure and leave a mm or so. It doesn’t need to be close as that joint has a huge moment arm, the bit that resists is the top/bottom corner of the slot on the opposing face rotating about a pivot...

The mechanism may be 4-point but the lock cylinder itself may not be anything special, further if there’s a turn-button on the inside it’s potentially accessible through the letterbox, a locksmith will be in no problems usually. Or learn to pick a cylinder, a generic one will take you a minute...

Soften the veneer, bag it onto the former and let it dry, if it hasn’t cracked by then you should be able to glue it down ok. On a wild grain I’d expect it to be possible (maybe not on the first take) a straight grain more difficult

Vacuum bag, about 14PSI is a lot of force over that area

5mm cutter, two passes

Take it out of a single piece of cedar and never mind about the lining. Or you can use a flat sheet underneath the cutouts if they go right through for some contrast. Or you’re into flocking which seems to either be a great success or a total disaster with nothing in between.

Yeah, they are.

The reason people are saying it’s rubbish… is because it’s rubbish. If it wasn’t, lots of tables would look like this, Ikea would sell them and the general guidelines for how you make a good table would give you a design like that. They don’t, because it’s rubbish. Maybe you like that...

It appears to have been built with… naff all thought to it’s practicality or appearance. If you’re going to make the effort of making something even a tiny bit like that, just a little bit of design work will make something a hundred times better. Overhang the top, a tiny bit of taper on the...

Inside curves I try and take straight off the router for this reason. A sanding drum with a foam layer may be more gentle, still needs technique

It never ceases to surprise me the number of people that ask for advice but only if it matches what they’ve already decided

Your box looks like elm to me. As for a branch 8” in diameter and 3’ long…lucky you that must have cost a fortune, if not another reason it might not be box. Rabbit glue… there’s a reason people don’t use it anymore

I use shellac based. As also noted, for a really hard finish satin varnish plus wax makes a controllable level of gloss finish. But for ease of use, sanding sealer can be sanded back however many times it takes to get the quality of finish you want

There isn’t a single answer to the both end/face grain question other than “best avoided”. It might be all right if it’s all uniformly dry and can move a little without causing problems elsewhere

Danish oil on ash goes very yellow A faster and non-yellowing approach is sanding sealer then wax, you can control the gloss level and it’s done in a few hours

L-bracket?