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  1. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    I agree for lots of uses but had hoped I would be OK here as I hand picked and dry stored the timber for >6 months before building. I wanted to use treated timber as its an exterior door. I think I could be facing the same issue with PSE softwood. That's correct and I worked out I needed 6mm of...
  2. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    I think I have been too ambitious going for 4x2 rather than 2x2. I did it because the walls have a filled 100mm cavity so I wanted to match that, but I think 50mm thick door cavity is still very good. I am awaiting a quote for PIR, but it's available for ~£20 per door, so I am tempted to change...
  3. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    I guess not, but I'd like to fill it. I'll then have to plane the frame back to square
  4. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    No though I guess I should have
  5. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    I think this could work. Having made the frames, they are pretty heavy. I have hinges rated to 160kg a pair but still. I am wondering about changing the plan to use 25 x 50 batten without the diagonal and doubled up on the stiles. Then I can insert a rectangle of 50mm thick PIR insulation...
  6. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    That's a good though. Adds quite a bi of weight, but would be stiffer.
  7. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    That's bad news. Am I better off making the door more flimsy so that it can be pulled straight by the door frame when closed and it's not an issue when open? Would be a shame to lose insulation thickness, but I guess I could make the stiles and rails from 2x2 timber instead, or perhaps even...
  8. M

    Straightening a twisted frame

    I've made the internal frame for one of a set of garage workshop doors. The doors are to be well insulated (90mm worth) to keep the garage workshop warm. The frame is going to get covered in plywood (12mm external, 5mm internal) and there is a window at the top. The problem I am having is the...
  9. M

    Varnish bands (streaks?)

    Thanks. I'd not used foam brushes before but was led to believe they are the way forward. Seems not. I like that the Rustins is food safe, not that anyone will be eating off the window cill but still.
  10. M

    Varnish bands (streaks?)

    I'm varnishing some Meranti window boards (internal cill) and am pretty sure its creating some banding. I am using Rustins Quick Drying Clear Satin varnish applied with a 1" foam brush. For the first coat, I am following the guidance on the tin and brushing across the grain and then with the...
  11. M

    How to make this cut

    I'm going to be battling against the cold a bit, but may treat and paint in the house if I can keep them hidden from the wife 🤣
  12. M

    How to make this cut

    Yes, 120mm thick. They include a 95mm thick layer of insulation inside so as to keep them nice and warm (overall U-value ~0.4 I think). I could make them thinner or warmer by using PIR insulation, but they are to include windows as well so probably not worth it and I have the lesser insulation...
  13. M

    How to make this cut

    I think my terminology is probably off and this is a lining. The brickwork is all self supporting. The inner leaf has steel beams (UC 203x133x25kg) and the outer leaf has a concrete lintel (R15 I think). I am going to have some fun screwing the top of the frame/lining at the top as I can't screw...
  14. M

    How to make this cut

    Both leaves of the garage wall have DPC layers (plastic DPC roll) below the level of the frame. There is a plastic cavity closer that I am going to have to use packers with my frame screws to compensate for. I think I could have omitted the cavity closers as the frame is going to bridge the...
  15. M

    How to make this cut

    You're probably right as it would be painful to go through the whole rebating process to find I have to cut the doors down anyway The reveal in the wall is 2528mm and I planned to have the following: 39(frame) + 3(gap)+ 1220(door) + 4(gap) + 1220(door) + 3(gap) + 39(frame) = 2528mm That would...
  16. M

    How to make this cut

    I have three sets of double doors and they could all be the same and each door exactly 1220mm which is my stock size if I could tweak the frames to accommodate. It also provides a solid stop note. I know I could probably more easily cut the doors to size, but it's a shame to be just off. I guess...
  17. M

    How to make this cut

    I guess I'd have to go pretty slowly with that. Am I likely to be able to take it anywhere to have the cut made?
  18. M

    How to make this cut

    It's for a set of door frames. They are for heavy garage doors and I want the frame to span the cavity wall as the exterior leave of the wall isn't carrying much weight (~200kg) so isn't as well 'constrained' as the inner leaf which is carrying a floor load and roof load so has over 2t bearing...
  19. M

    How to make this cut

    I've a load of scaffolding boards I am trying to resist using :D
  20. M

    How to make this cut

    I had wondered if you could get something like the image below, but without the protrusion in the middle. It would allow me to use that and a circular saw to take off 20mm x 8mm strips at a time. Looks a little dodgy though as I could imagine things going wrong quite rapidly if you went off...
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