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I don’t understand why ‘filler’ is a misnomer. It fills the open grain… using less material (and requiring less polish manipulation when pulling over) to achieve a high build finish…

It is more than likely plaster of Paris or something very similar, that used to be used (more widely) as a grain filler….

Vegetable oil would do

And take the door off

I could of painted this depending on where you are, this is my bread and butter. It’s too big an area in a obvious place to just touch up. It needs respraying. If you have the paint, a professional would have it like new in an hour. Depending on the type of paint, you could pick it up in the...

I’ve used a copper powder you put into clear coat, it will naturally oxidise but can be sped up with vinegar/acid

Don’t go too mad, the various cracks from age give it, it’s own unique character

I get the impression you want it to be more highly glossy, you could make sure the tops free from grease dirt etc Key it up and just overcoat it with a higher gloss lacquer, think that will get you as close to what you want. Redoing the top will require all old polish removed, careful prep to...

I’m not being a gatekeeper or purposely belittling, sorry but tbh if your not experienced I’d recommend not trying to do more than a wax/quick revive yourself, I don’t think you’ll get the results your hoping for and more than likely make it worse… Trust me I been in the trade over 20 years, I...

I’m assuming it’s properly seasoned? If not you’ll run into issues (shrinkage/movement/etc) down the line, if it hasn’t been…

Shouldn’t need treatment if a good finish is used, it’s resistant enough on its own. Using a different product on the surface before painting can hinder the paint adherence. I use an dedicated external, catalysed P.u from Sayerlack, super durable and fantastic finish.

Most finishes don’t fully cure for a week or so, some like oils can take longer depending on humidity and ambient temperature… With oil it important to remove as much excess as possible, make sure it’s well ventilated, at least 15c and it’ll cure.

Oh and mdf is quite forgiving when rubbing trough the paint, as long as you don’t concentrate on one area and make a dip,

I’d consider this to be my area of expertise… Water-bourn on mdf isn’t the best as it makes the fibres puff up. And really you need a primer first, this will fill the edges better and be easier to sand than coat on coat (top coat) that your trying to do, this is part of the reason it feels...

I’ve not thought about what coating is on wire wool before, surely if there was any it would prone to rusting? Have you tried using scotchbright pads instead of w/W?

You can knock it back with 0000 wire wool and use a clear wax over the top, if you don’t want to add another varnish over the top

Sorry, assumed you were trade... really any black paint will do probably

When you say won’t work, what do you mean? It’s not high build enough? Tints too light?

Have you tried Movac?

Short answer- paints too thick probably Experiment with thinning by water usually 5-10% and make sure to flatten all the under coats properly. Also check your running the correct pressures recommended for the finish (could be too low)