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...thus, I guess, affecting the amount of slip that might occur if you're putting a lot of pressure on the tool...but who does that? Thanks for the info!

Not a reverse either...it presses against the motor case.

The vari speed control is on the other side. This one has a threaded rod which presses onto the motor casing inside. I'll see if I can post a photo later.

hi all, I recently bought one of these units and am confused as to the function of the knob on the rear face (opposite to the on/off). Hoping somebody else might have it figured out? The manual is no help - it shows that one can turn the knob both ways - this I knew already! thanks Gavin

there's a very useful Drummond group on Yahoo, also a Drummond/Myford group on Facebook, both well worth joining

I was looking at the loop handles under the bed, shown on the etchings of nos. 2, 3 and 6 on that page, although admittedly my photo doesn't show them too well!

@clogs yes I spotted it had been welded...there is a mm or so side play in the headstock bearing so that needs looking at as there's no obvious means of taking it up the clamps for the banjo and tailstock look like those for Brittania lathes so maybe it's a hybrid/DIY version made from other bits

No joy there either yet Droogs, but there's a lot of it!

hi all, I just bought this old lathe, mainly for the bits that came with it but it has piqued my curiosity just to find out more about it. Bed length is about 18", centre height 3" and the spindle is 5/8" x 10 tpi. The only markings on it are on the tool holder: Kingston Hastings and Type B...

Nothing Adam, I have no actual use for them, just think they are beautifully engineered and worth preserving. Expensive items in their day. edit: Although, thinking back, my Dad used to get me to weigh his wedding ring every few years or so, to see how much gold had worn off. He kept a graph of...

Vintage analytical balances - purely mechanical ones that can weigh accurately down to a ten-thousandth of a gram. They mainly date from the 1950s and IMHO are objects of great beauty as well as precision. I have four, which is realistically all I have room for, under current domestic...

Correct - I did an acoustics course some years back and the tutor then told us that e.g. for each mm gap around a door, there's a large% increase in noise escape. There's a formula, but I can't remember it...got a book somewhere...

Noise suppression ideally needs mass and absorbency. It will be most effective either close to the source (i.e. as an enclosure) or close to the receiver (i.e. as a noise screen - you could add absorbency or mass to the side of the car port adjoining the neighbours, for example). If going the...

Knights in White Satin, classic Moody Blues but useless in battle.

Tung oil has worked well for me, at least for coasters, it resists hot mugs very well.

+1 for Meaco, ours is the Platinum, a few years old and runs nearly 24/7 during the colder months to dry washing. Hasn't missed a beat since we bought it.

I kept one for ages wondering if I could make it stir paint (Humbrol tiny tins, not 5 litre Dulux!!). Then I thought it was easier to continue to use a screwdriver, and threw recycled the toothbrush away.

hi all I have a 60's balance for restoration. It has a plywood cabinet with curved sides and cutouts etc, which is painted. The paint is badly crazed on the edges and curved parts, but mostly well adhering to the flat bits. I have scraped off what comes off in flakes, but the rest is well...

I have the Sjoberg ST03, which are great and very economical at 40 quid for a pair. Easy to use, solid and no hammering involved.

There's a lot of bevel for lathe use, but some sort of scraper seems reasonable. Either way, I'll keep it as it is, it's a lot of work to re-grind it, and as you say John not much left afterwards! It's a good age, just think of the hands it's been through in a century and a half (ish).