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I was taught (as an apprentice joiner, not a cabinetmaker) that the external wedging method is preferred for joinery work as it ensures the rail tenons are driven tightly against the internal walls of the mortices when knocked in in the correct sequence so that clamping is only required from...

Hi Graham, I'd say its ramin, certainly looks similar to that on endgrain. Common timber for broom handles and other tools handles, dowels etc for years but now endangered so if it's from an old broom I'd say pretty certain but you can still find ramin handles being sold if it's from a new one...

Hi Nick, how's things? Try NMA Agencies as they are the UK suppliers for Kity nowadays. 01484 400 488 Cheers Andy

Another one worth considering is Luaun (often known a Meranti) When described as Meranti it was normally used as a cheaper alternative to Sapele/Mahogany for doors etc, and can have the same deep red hue, but can also be very pale and yellow. Its in the paler shades that I often saw it referred...

Hi Lurker, Give Ramin a quick google - often used as drawer stock around the era mentioned and beyond (on the edangered list now though, but used to be the favourite for mouldings, dowels, broom handles etc as well) and doesn't smell the best when it's cut. Andy

Hi Eric, I've used Clarks Wood and Bristol City Timber for U/S Redwood and both have been excellent. Last time I used BCT for U/S they only kept it in limited sizes; 9x2 and 9x3 as I recall. I found both places a tad pricy, but not as much as Robbins - They can be very expensive for some of...

Hi Cheshirechappie, The reasoning behind this part of the article was that I made comment regarding the durability of a Clifton casting compared to the LN and Veritas ductile castings should they fall to a hard surface in a previous review and that Cliftons use of grey iron (as was being...

Already done - I emailed my editor around 2pm this afternoon when I saw this thread. Andy

No problem Stu I understood your posting was down to that - It was a comment later in the thread that seemed to be saying that the initial difference in the torque ratings was down to an error by us as a magazine not getting the facts right, hence the defence from me. How the pic ended up there...

In the interests of fairness, the question that was emailed was asking why Makita were claiming they had the highest torque level for an impact driver yet Ryobi have a higher torque model - it wasn't a mistake on the part of the magazine or indeed the journalist not getting the facts right. I...

I wouldn't think this would be suitable in thin timber stock of the dimensions given? I would think it would be fine if you needed discs rather than holes but the outer edge of the punch has the bevel angle so will wedge the timber and likely split it - unless there are internal and external...

I'd say its because of the way you post. This appoach you choose is a provocative comment. If you said 'In my opinion' as a qualifier, then fine, and the discussion could move on very easily, but you are seemingly stating a set in stone fact, when it is only your opinion - and the rolling eyes...

That's very sad news - my sincere condolences. Andy

Hi Stuart, That's the one!!! I'm not up on this sketchup/cad malarkey - I knew what I was on about just coulnd't draw it! cheers, Andy

I think I may have confused or misunderstood! I was referring to initial stock prep which was in reference to Jacob's comment about how things change after resizing. The initial planing to attain a flat square reference is not necessarily the ultimate best ones, I always plane to true...

Pretty much the same way I was taught, the exception being that once you have component dimensions established from your cutting list, the stock is prepared to those dimensions and then given the once over to establish best face and edges, position within the project etc, and face and edges...

What's the point in all that work - sweep braces with elaborate inlays, metal planes with intricate castings and so on... :lol: All those old manufacturers wasting their time turning out high quality kit for the woodworkers of that era - bit like nowadays, pointless eh? :lol: :lol: :lol...

Looking at what you are trying to achieve, I'd say a mitred bridle joint would do the job - it would give true mitre intersections and have decent glue area as well. You will need a flat edge for the bridle to have some thickness, but you should be able to still taper it down to the profile you...

No, you can still make the tenon narrower to allow it a proper M&T, but a haunch is definitely the way to go. The haunch is designed to keep the rails from twisting or moving, locking the full width of the rail into the stile. One other advantage usually overlooked, is water integrity. If...

the 'clique' works both ways - those who support him haven't been on the recieving end of the same diatribe. I was simply defending the particular member, not myself as such. What went on because of it was not of my making, but i did defend myself to a different accusation being made because of...