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I'd soak in vinagar for 24 hours, wipe off the residue of rust, rinse in water with a little bicarb of soda (to neutralise the acid), then give a bit of protection with wd40 or similar

I know nothing of the legality of skip diving, I had always thought that it was legally theft unless you had permission, your standpoint seems perfectly reasonable and common sense, unless that is the skip is not being used for rubbish but to store materials when there is no space on site, or...

sorry I see everyone has said the same thing whilst I've been typing

that would be my suggestion, join freecycle or similar, look at facebook market place, gumtree etc and grab whatever solid wood items you can get hold of and strip for bits. I've had several wooden bed frames which offer a lot of useable wood with minimal effort, personally I'd avoid pallets as...

that works as a summary of multitools to me, if you have plenty of room to work, they are rarely the right tool, but for awkward spaces they are a game changer, so glad I've got mine

I've got a dewalt, because I had the batteries, it is very noisy but it does the job nicely, tool free blade change and trigger rather than switch are great features. I would choose the three speed model if I were buying again, just occasionally I find the trigger doesn't give me enough control...

for rough work like that I found irwin speedbore bits (tri auger I think) in an impact driver to be bang on, plus always a good idea to move the bit in and out reguarly to clear swarf, the same would be true whatever bit you are using

my quick kit for round the house is a small, tall, homemade tote, about the size of those wire totes that held four pints pints of milk back in the day. it holds a selection of screwdrivers, wd40, fuses, a knife, a pencil or two, a few pliers and a 16oz hammer, nice to able to grab everything...

I've not met them before, ae they only for knitted socks? EDIT - sorry I see that has been answered in the time it took my to write the question

I found foil to be more effective for PU glue ups, the foil tops from tubs of spread (marge etc) seem a good size and shape.

I've only ever used on tool handles, my process, which others may feel is wrong, is to dilute the first coat 50/50 with spirit to help it draw right into the wood, I normally put it straight on with disposable gloves (if you put it on with a rag a good half gets lost into the rag), wait 20...

I agree you always want to screw through thin into thick, however I think all the wood in the picture has the same dimensions, hard to see properly but that is how it looks to me

not quite sure why this would be the case? it would all be stronger, albeit heavier, if there was additional wood put in underneath each joint so the weight was bearing on that piece and not just relying on the glue and screws, overkill perhaps

i wasn't impressed by their speed clamps, had a pair of the larger ones, one broke with light use within a month (specifically the plastic surround of the mechanism cracked around the screw), I've had no problems with the lidl f clamps (nor the aldi ones, which are identical but in another colour)

I always worry about the water being channelled down the diagonal brace and being trapped at, or near, the joint, I can't see any way around this though?

I'd try some extra long 8mm bolts, in throught the manufactured holes on the saw, straight through the 10mm hole in the bench claw, washer, then 8mm nut under that. or am I missing something? also the video on the link in the original post says 8mm fixings are supplied so something has got lost...

from what I've gathered from the opening post you are just breaking down sheet goods so only needs moderate accuracy, you could do that with pretty much any circular saw, save your money for tools or materials where you'll see a benifit

in some other markets you see 'fatmax tstak' which would be easily distinguished from 'deep pro', 'shallow pro' etc, I also note that occasional irwin items are identical to dewalt, for instance drill bit cases that fit into the tstak caddy system.

to the best of my knowledge 'dewalt tstak' and 'fatmax pro stack' are entirely compatable, where as 'fatmax deep pro' (and presumably the shallow variant) are not compatable with tstak/ pro stack even though they are a near identical size. I believe that the lift out bins that come in the tstak...

I use a silicon pastry brush, with the bristles cut short so it is all a bit more solid, pva rinses off instantly, or picks off easily when dried. Also have a few pieces of milk bottles or similar, cut into cards with a combed edge