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Finally finished, other than a bit of paint.

Still have a bunch more millwork to install

Back to the working on the laundry room again. The drawers are ash.

I prefer integral tenons in a housed groove. I did use the domino to cut the mortises on this one.

You can use the woods natural movement to your advantage. If you make your own loose tenons slightly oversized (when at the equilibrium moisture content) they can be made slightly undersized by drying them beyond normal. It's the similar concept of differential movement like that of Windsor...

I don't use the domino very often but it's nice to have. Can't say I've had issues working off pencil lines using tight domino's.

It's generally well known (over here) all the American brand hand held power tools are made in China. Good luck finding something that isnt.

I wouldn't be without at least one, and preferably more than one. I currently have 3. 5.5 (tiwan import 511 machine), 7.5 (invicta ti-14, Brazilian made clone of a scm t160) and 9hp (casolin f-90.) Two have sliding tables (511 & f90) and one tilts (ti-14). I've only stalled the 5.5 hp 511...

I would go with a spindle moulder over a router table every time, though I don't really like them much without a power feeder.

As big and heavy as you can accommodate. I like my casolin f90 and invicta ti14 (scm t160 clone) over my Taiwan 511.

Lol. No I knew what you meant. I meant I have never seen that done on cabinet doors (here.) It's just not done.

I've seen that in furniture over here, but never cabinets. Typical double doors with a 1.5mm gap.

I saw that on woodweb years ago but it never made sense to me. You would end up with a visible seam at every rail. Maybe not so noticeable on stained cabinets but it would stick out (imho) on painted cabinets. if you need to join seperare face frames without a depth change I prefer a field...

With uppers, I do 3mm and no packing with 12mm plywood (with a 2" face frame width.) Lowers usually get the same 3mm on one side with 18mm ply and only one partition so 3mm on one side and 30mm on the other, or centered at 16mm if needed.

Thank you. I can say I still need to finish the laundry, but the kitchen is finally done* *The moulding could use another coat of paint.

Took a long break from finishing the kitchen. I finally made the archatrive moulding (separate thread) and the wall paneling.

Maple and birch.

Works fine.

Not sure what you call the look over there (or if it exists as a faux finish) but here it's called German schmear. It's a heavy parge coat of mortar that is then knocked back to reveal some of the brick work. Ita supposed to mimic old distressed walls. Its certainly not for everyone and for...

I'm not a fan of modernism or minimalism. I don't want to live in a cold sterile environment. To me it all looks like an office kitchen/break room. The crazy thing to me is that the exclusion of all mouldings (skirting, architrave..ect) is more difficult to pull off, is harder to change/ fix...