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If you want to check the speed of the motor but don't have a tachometer, a cheap and easy method is to stick a bit of tape to the shaft so it sticks out on one side, then put something sturdy next to the motor so the tape hits once per turn. Switch the motor on and record it running for a few...

Thanks everyone, seems to be a pretty clear consensus for beech.

Is anyone able to identify this wood? It's a piece from a batch I inherited from a relative, and has a bit of history. He cleared it out from Hattersley's mill in Keighley in the 70s, then stored it in his loft for the last 50 years. It had possibly been sitting the mill for 50 years or more...

Quick google of "vintage metal scraper tool" brings up a few that look almost identical to these. Thanks again.

This is good to know, because I did in fact but a metalworking lathe in a flush of enthusiasm. About the only bit I think is in good condition is the bed though. Thanks.

I've been rummaging through a drawer of tools I inherited, and there are a few I'm clueless about. They look like files and rasps, but have smooth surfaces. The one shown in an image separate could be some sort of chisel at a push, but the end of it splays outwards, and it's blunt. Anyone know...

You probably don't need to buy a battery charger, check what you've got in your junk drawer first. I've been doing a fair of electrolysis recently restoring an old lathe. Started out using an old ATX power supply, which gave 12V and a lot of amps. That worked well, but I managed to short it out...

Thanks Deema, sounds like a lot of prep, but I suspected there would be. Not heard about paint straining before, so that was very useful. Unfortunately the "workshop" is an unheated garage in Scotland. 20c is a long long way in the future.

Thanks, hadn't thought of mixing approaches. Only drawback might be economic as I'd need to swing for the aersol as well as the paint, which doesn't look to come in less than 1L.

I've randomly acquired a small vintage lathe (a James Spencer dating from somewhere between 1890 and 1920). I'm going through the process of stripping everything down, derusting and getting the parts moving again, and at some point will want to paint it. (photos here for anyone that's...

Thanks, a reduce span sounds like a sensible option. I did suggest it to the architect earlier, but he didn't seem keen for some reason. Guess I'll pressure him on that one. My current lathe bench isn't much more secure than Cabinetman's (basically just a bunch of scrap timber I had hanging...

We're getting some building work done that will involve (for various reasons) installing a raised floor in the space where I have my Myford ML8 setup. Right now the floor is concrete. I'm concerned that vibration will be an issue on a raised floor, and am considering getting a section of poured...

Just spent an evening putting together this thing to help line everything up and hold it in place inside the tube while screwing the headstock bolt back in. There's room for improvement, but it makes the job a whole lot easier. If any other ML8 owners would like the files to print I can post them.

Just taken another look, and it does indeed attach with the bolt from the tool rest (I'd forgotten there's a hex bit to that at the top). Doesn't look elegant, but it does fit, so now I have a saw. Swapping it in an out is a whole world of pain though.

It take me a good ten minutes of trial, error, cursing and dropping things to get the tailstock back on. I'm hoping there's some simple trick I don't know that makes it easier.

Thanks, that would be handy.

I've acquired a couple of attachments for my old Myford ML8 (a circular saw and mortice attachment), but I think I need to source an additional part in order to use them. I'd assumed they'd attach in place of the tool rest, using the same parts, but they both look to need a hex bolt (see...