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Those slotting cutters are for cutting a groove in the edge of a piece - the router base sits on top of the board, the bearing runs against the edge to keep the depth constant, and it cuts in from the side. If your grooves are in the middle of the face, you'll want a straight cutter; for rebates...

Generally you want to be choosing your mortice chisel based on the thickness of the piece being morticed, so in this case the leg. Look at the joint in cross section, and you've got three pieces glued together - the tenon, and the two sides of the mortice surrounding it. You want the thinnest of...

Replace that last line with "realise you marked it right the first time and shouldn't have changed it". Far more infuriating that way.

If the bucket only starts collapsing when there's a blockage in the hose, then you can set the relief valve to a threshold higher than the normal working pressure in the cyclone and it won't affect the performance. If it's collapsing under normal usage, then the bucket's just too weak and...

For most router work (more or less anything that doesn't involve dovetails), if you find the tool is underpowered you can just back off a bit and do it in more passes. It'll take a bit longer but should give a perfectly decent result.

This thread is what you need to be reading first. Read the whole thing, really, but the key points to take away first are: OSB goes on the inside, not the outside, of the wall insulation, and you need a ventilated gap outside your insulation on both roof and walls. Insulating the floor is down...

I have mine vertical, soles against the wall behind the workbench. It means every one of them is in clear view, you can always see instantly which ones you haven't put away yet, the totes are in just the right position to grab and start using, and there's no shelf sticking out to overhang the...

Both routers can take both sizes of bits. My MOF001 came with 1/4" and 8mm collets in the box, but the same replacement collets fit the TRA001, MOF001 and JOF001, so you just need £15 or so extra for a 1/2" collet.

Then the 260 machines are probably the ones to look at - while you can get a benchtop thicknesser that'll work just fine, good benchtop planers don't seem to exist, which makes the 260s the smallest commonly available combo machine worth having. If it's in halfway decent condition, yes. I'd...

That's the one I have - I couldn't find a better option with the same capacity without spending a lot more. Just one thing to be careful of: to get that cutting capacity with a relatively small blade, it's got a lot of travel in the slides, and they're the type that sticks out behind the saw...

There's no such thing as best for general use. For long straight rips 150mm deep, you'll want the widest blade your saw can tension properly, at around 3tpi. For cutting curves in sheet materials or thin timber, the 1/4" blade will be able to go round a curve that something wider won't. You need...

I can't say too much about construction methods, but do bear in mind that at that size you'll fall under building regulations as well as planning. Most of the advice you'll find on here is for smaller builds that don't have to comply, so just be careful on that front.

What's your budget, and how much space do you have? The various 260 models are a good starter at their price point and footprint, but a little more of both will get you a machine that'll last longer and be more capable. I have the Record Power PT260 - partly for budget reasons, but mostly...

A router on a guide rail adapter is the most obvious answer - if your router doesn't have that attachment, or you don't have a tracksaw and rails already then an ad-hoc guide jig shouldn't be hard to fashion. I'd be looking at two straight edges held parallel, with the gap in between being the...

Be a bit careful with 'not a safety issue' - at the right (or wrong, depending how you look at it) speeds, there's every chance it will appear stationary.

After living in this house for four years without putting a number on the front, I decided to have a go at carving. Still needs a bit more cleanup on the tape residue and that bit of tearout at the top, but I'm fairly happy for a first go.

I thought about those two options for a while, then ended up just putting a piece of plywood on the wall and screwing tool holders on wherever I wanted them.

As long as the bevel angle is less than 45 degrees, it won't make the slightest difference to how it actually cuts - the blade is mounted with the bevel down, so the cutting angle is set by the bed of the plane and not the bevel. The difference is in the distribution of effort for repeated...

At a basic level, what's essential is a flat surface with a hole in it, a router mounted so that the cutter sticks up through that hole, and a straight fence that can be moved around and locked in place. That'll get you going, and in theory you can do 90% or more of router table work on that...

This is what dual application cabinet hinges are made for - attaching two doors on opposite sides of a single panel. With 28mm thick doors, though, you'll need one designed for that - most have a maximum door thickness of around 21mm. This would be one example, though other manufacturers and...