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Most high quality collets have a different slot cuts scheme: The slots are cut from an end and stop close to the other end, and the slots are cut alternating the slot open end... The design you are showing does have a higher Runout, because the clamping has only one slot open at only one side. A...

SORRY, but a good reading of the jigsaw instructions booklet would be the starting point... See, Orbital action with multiple settings is definitely not a new thing. Another possibility, is a damaged blade attachment, that allows the blade to get pushed backwards, causing a lack of cutting...

As others have well said, both base materials have their advantages and disavantages... But my comment will verse more on the DESIGN and EXECUTION of the sole plate and base, because I have found, in the worst possible way, that a supposedly reputable brand would sell "well designed and well...

WELL, It depends WHICH Bosch Impact driver model... Their Gen-1 was quite mediocre, Gen-2 also mediocre, but Gen 1.5 that is still being sold (I would better say, DISPOSED OF) in many countries, advertised as a "180 Nm" torque, is an absolute piece of rubbish... it still has a brushed motor, and...

The Makita belt sanders are powerful... but lack the all too important (for me) VARIABLE SPEED. I do not always sand just woods, many times I need to sand plastic parts, fiberglass parts, and other surfaces that demand a low speed to avoid melting, or for more control; like a Polycarbonate lens...

Your question is somewhat INCOMPLETE...!, Let's see: There are TWO main categories of rotary sanders as of today: ONE: the "standard", ubiquitous, and "plain" ones with the following characteristics: a) A 125mm platter; b) A Free wheeling bearing that allows that platter to rotate thanks...

I will wait for it!... Another important point that appears that it has not been mentioned yet: Is it reducing the inrush current too? (having a soft-start is nice indeed, but limiting the start-up current peak is perhaps more important in many installations!

If you keep putting weight on it, most probably will end up wearing the sander mechanism. The weight of the sander should do the job, provided you are not using the sandpaper disks for too long and have already worn down the abrasive... With geared ROS sanders with more then say, 600 watt...

If anyone of you could throw some help, regarding rails and Track saws...? My question is, being true Track saws so expensive in my contry (Mexico), and having a pair of old Bosch FSN 140 cm guide rails, No. 2 602 317 031; I am thinking (along the full DIY tradition) of modifying a new Makita...

Not in my Hhumble opinion, because it only has a 400 Watt motor... My Makita BO60650 has a 6.6 amp motor (792 Watts at 120 V), and it is good for larger jobs, like a full size concert piano or an 8-person dinning table. The 400 watt category, in my opinion, is good for a medium sized desk top...

I have used a SMALL butane blowtorch, to slightly heat the screw head, and help to make it come out easier. On very resinous woods that make the screw stick to them tenaciously, heating and quickly cooling the screw with a cooling spray repeaing several times, it will unstick it better. Good Luck.

With dual orbit sizes, it would be attractive, but the 440 watt power is weak for large jobs, like a piano or large dinning table. I still believe that 700 watt and above is where the sanders get truly useful. Having Variable Speed with constant torque is very important, as many materials...

LOOK MORE CAREFULLY!: the BO 6030 is NOT a Forced Rotation model... it is just (in my humble opinion), another "puny" little random orbit sander of the heap... I still have an old Bosch PE-12 AE Random Orbit sander with 125 mm diameter disc, small 3mm orbit size and only around 380 watt power...

We that also happen to be aeromodelers, call wives "the DCA", as they are always trying to shut down our airplanes!

When drilling concrete, a direct interpretation of drill wattage gives an incomplete picture: The drill has to impact the concrete first with enough force to break the material and then remove the fragments before the next impact can be exerted. Most hand drills with a "hammer" function that...

This is the adjustable base plate that DeWalt used to sell many years ago. The idea behind it, is to carry the Belt sander ABOVE the woodwork, so as to prevent the belt going too deep and leaving gouges or marks. By carefully adjusting the sander height to accomodate the belt thickness in order...

If that is your experience, Fine! Mine is what I have already said. I also use dust collection and change the sanding belts and pads on time, plus using tack clothes frequently to take off any sanding residues. Perhaps I should add that woodwork is not my only experience with...

I do not agree: a Belt sander with a fixed, too high speed and too coarse belt is indeed a NO-NO... (for example, a Makita 4" x 24" without speed control, a brute force machine that is only good for aggresive work and not at all for any finish!) BUT; a variable speed belt sander equipped with...

Craftsman Routers are known to have plastic brush holders, whichpartially melt or get so soft, that the springs push the carbon brushes out of alignment, until the motor fails completely. Craftsman is only a "name", and has passed from company to company along the time. more than 10 years ago I...

Seems to me that this subject needs a full RESET!!!: -Please Allow me to explain myself; I have used several Random Orbit Sanders for many years. The first one I bought and still have, is a Swiss-made Bosch PE-12 AE variable speed with 3mm orbit and an un-coupled, free rotating bearing pad...