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Also, the new brushes will take a while to seat and sparking should decrease.

Just a point of interest. You mention 'some old Rhodesian teak', treasure it because there is no more 'new' Rhodesian teak. It was used for railway sleepers initially. Since converted to concrete sleepers and Rhodesian teak is no longer available except in old sleepers and parque flooring.

what roof covering do you have. Your trusses look like the type designed for tiles. If you've got e.g. metal sheeting for roofing you would have some leeway with the number of supports needed in the trusses

Try the back end of an old tooth brush. Some types work, some don't.

....or, try mounting it on a rubber mat. The drone might be going through whatever it's mounted on?

Is it a Transit? Restored a 1972 MK1 with lot lot of help from the Brit Transi forum. Took 5 years and then got an offer I couldn't refuse - regrets ever since.

I also assumed ass referred to that dumb, stubbord equine half-assed donkey. buttocks was something entirely different and much more offensive.

I understood that diesel fumes are more toxic than petrol fumes, from combustion engines?

I know! It's for glossing over a bad cut.

Fit parliment hinge, it will immediately swing the door further away from the RH upright.

Agree. Most good varnishes have 50%+ oil content to 'feed' the timber, and a 'shelac' to seal the oil in. The 'shelac' breaks down in time, with exposure to UV, making life easier for a light sanding and reapply of varnish.

Is a sliding door an option?

Yes. I have this to be the case in South Africa.

Picking this thread up a bit late but, I'd go for overkill on protection followed by comfort. Can't negotiate eye replacement.

Idle but won't rev - runs rough = all of the aforementioned, but very possibly a silencer clogged with carbon. Too much oil in the fuel mix, faulty spark or other poor ignition will deposit gunk in the silencer which interupts the free flow of exhaust air. Remove, clean thoroughly and reassemble.

Calcium plumbate was/is designed specifically for priming new galvanised sheeting, and bonds very very effectively to the galvanise. Once the sheeting has weathered and rusting, a single pack etching primer should do the trick. Top coat - most rubberised roof paints will do.

Instead of drawers, why not put the tread on hinges with a fixed box/storage area under. A stopper on the tread should prevent the 'lid' from staying open if not held. Shouldn't weaken the structure if done with some thought - just a thought.

Edit.....entire wall with solvent based ....

Where PVA is flaking, scrape off all loose paint and paint entire walk with a solvent based bonding liquid, then apply new PVA (Arylic PVA would have been ideal)

Thanks pe2dave - will stick to the charger/battery. No big deal.