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I spent a few hours today troubleshooting. I began by taking off the belt and lower wheel and just seeing what the vibration was like with the motor in there on its own: There is a little, but it is minimal so I don't think the motor is the problem. I noticed that the bottom wheel nut wasn't...

Looks like my list of things to check is growing! I'm going to head up tomorrow and do the following: 1) See how the machine runs with no belt attached and check the groove the belt runs in is in ok condition 2) Check the belt alignment with levels to make sure the motor groove and wheel groove...

It may not be the belt of course but its probably worth a shot given its a simple fix and I can't seem to find anything else wrong. The belt seems to be in good condition so hopefully it won't need replacing. The bearings in the speed control tensioner have been installed with the size facing...

It did come with a tensioner but the manual describes this as for 'speed control'. I removed it because the bearings in it are clearly worn and it screeches like a jet engine starting up when in place. That said I think you are right - removing this could have been the issue. The vibration...

Hi again, First of all, sorry for the huge amount of time since last posting- I went through a very busy period at work then got sidetracked finishing cladding my shed. I have been using the bandsaw (it works great for 'construction scale tasks') but the accuracy/vibration has not improved. I...

The cladding is finally (almost) all on - I still need to do the top boards at the front and back but am waiting for an electrician to check my light wiring. I also painted the windows and they look great with the boards around them. Need to clean the glass! The lights are wired through...

Boards going up - I started with the back in case I made any mistakes. I forgot to put the dpc on to protect the bricks from paint, not too bothered for this side and will just be careful when painting. The corner: Really happy with the colour and how it goes with the roof.

I have been doing the second coat of paint on the boards over the past few days and am almost ready to start cladding. I went around the building and got the insect mesh in place, stapled into the wedges and tucked under the dpc. The face of each wedge is painted as it is untreated - probably...

This is what I have come up with for the bottom of the corner: It's not ideal that the brick sticks out slightly but I think it is better than the corner coming out any further. This issue is due to the thickness of the plinth varying such that at this particular corner it is slightly wider...

Starting to paint - this first coat is watered down 30% and I'm using a roller to apply it.

Wedges on - these are all slightly different angles as the timber frame wasn't exactly parallel to the foundation. I'm think it might be a good idea to put a coat of bedec on the untreated face. I will need to fix the first featheredge board along its centre to ensure it is secure (the wedges...

Wow yes, you were absolutely right. The thick 25mm blade oscillates severly and can't really be used. I haven't had time to do extensive lower wheel adjustments with the thicker blade but from ~1/2hr experimenting it seems to make little difference... I have some plywood and do seem to remember...

Battening out the walls: I also added another pentice board above the door as it was previously flat - DPC is on its way but I've used a whole roll! Dom

I used the cheapest convection heaters I could find on Amazon - they work well for me but I can't say how they will perform in the long run. They have holes in the back you can use for wall mounting. Dom

Ok - I will try to leave exits for the water to run off. Perhaps I don't need to between the reveal timbers but still may between the window frame and the side reveals to prevent water getting in. I finished the day working on the corners - I wanted to do the narrower ones but it wasn't going...

Today I made up the main window reveal. I decided to cut the sill flush: As suggested by Mike, the pentice board at the top is sloped and will have dpm that slides under the breathable membrane running onto it. I think I will fill small gaps (e.g. between sill and side reveal) with some sort...

Since the last post I have moved lots of stuff in and also installed a door to the smaller room: Cladding is still to come! I am currently trying to work out how I am going to do the soffit (which covers the breathable membrane on the roof from below). At the front of the building this is...

I'll avoid this in future. I now have this working well; tracking to the centre of both wheels and minimal back-forth (with east-west adjustment): https://i.imgur.com/99an2Q2.mp4 I followed the Rikon guide and imagine I could get it better if I wanted to but to be this amount of movement is...

I don't think that has happened, the squealing only occurs when I do a sharp curve and the side of the blade body spins the bearings. The wheel bearings are 6005RS. Simply Bearings stock them from Nachi, Koyo and NSK from Japan and some other (cheaper) european brands. Do you reccomend a...

Can confim - I tried this before reading this and it had no effect. It seems to move back and forth just like the thicker blade. To clarify I have now tried this with a standard guage 3/8" and a standard guage 3/4". I have a thin guage 3/4" (tuffsaws premium range) that I am yet to test. Are...