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When I started in the trade, mid 70s, I used a two sided carborundum stone. Took me until nearly 40 years later to be told my edge tools were not sharp, via the YouTube "influencers".

Don’t know if they were or were not! Here in the states, if you find one, the blade is usually bent/twisted, as if used as a jab saw, weird because the saw plate is generally thick.

My dad was a carpenter/house builder after WWII until 1990s. He always had a keyhole saw somewhere handy, but used for punching & cutting holes in drywall or plaster. I viewed that style saw like you do: useless!

Who cuts their pizza? That just invites others to have some of your pie!

I have a fair number of LN, Veritas, a Clifton and many vintage Stanley & Millers Falls hand planes. It is not difficult to get a vintage to perform like a modern plane, but it can take a bit of time (or money for some machining time!). Just taking apart and cleaning a vintage plane along with...

My problem is having too many tools, then storing and then forgetting where they are! How else can I explain a half dozen stair gauges!

I’d grind back past the deep pits, sharpen and use. That iron has enough life in it to last years.

User modified. Looks pretty and should work nicely. Brass might leave dark streaks, if it oxidizes, just clean the sole! You do need to clock the screws!

I handled a Calvert Stevens smoother a year or two ago, at a tool sale. Appeared finished nicely, but too shiny and glitzy! Price wasn’t bad but not enough for me to buy. Wasn’t it a “spiced” up Record for a tool retailer? For me, I’d pop for a new Clifton#5 or a Veritas or LN low angle block.

To clarify, I didn’t mean to denigrate Paul Sellers by any means! His abilities are miles beyond what I could ever hope to be, andI do watch his videos on occasion. I was noting that the methodology of the knifed line predates Mr. Sellers.

I also use both pencils and a knife. Pencil is a Pentel with .03mm lead and the knife is a Narex two edge. The knife works best for me, just sharp and not super sharp. As far as a”knife wall”, Roy Underhill demonstrated that on one of his shows 30 years ago and attributed it to some old...

Put a dab of silicone caulk (or any) in the groove where the chip breaker goes together. It will then stay together. For me, I like the two piece and it makes honing very quick & easy.

Definitely yes. I actually make parts for the conglomerate.

Black and Decker is a huge conglomerate. They own Stanley, MTD (maker of consumer lawn mowers, etc.), Bostitch, Emglo and multiple other companies.

Go a step further, the danger in organizing tools, is failing to remember where you relocated them to. That is how I now have duplicates and triplicates of so many. Another axiom is, after buying another tool, you find where the misplaced tool is.

I have a large and smaller Starrett. Expensive, but they last.

I would look for a vintage Stanley or Record. I would probably opt for a low angle and if simply grind a bit steeper angle on the blade, if that’s your desire.

That is so 1981! I’ve watched, literally dozens of YouTubers this past weekend and they have overcome all plane problems mainly by ”Astro sharpening”. I did not send in my $1.98 and two box tops to get the special instruction, but I will this week.

I’m not saying it is a bad thing, but in the greater scheme of things, there are other skills of much more importance. To me, many look for things like flattening a plane sole as another step in things they must do before actually working wood. Unfortunately the list keeps growing.

Damn Tube-you’res.