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I am certainly finding this. Based on the advice above I've tried to think more about the numbers involved. Although I hope to spray some shellac (i.e. potentially an explosive hazard) the amount sprayed in one session would be minimal. Therefore, by concentrating on good airflow and decent...

I assume something along these lines should suffice: Airbox 5000 m³ per hour

A few more details…… Space is moderately restricted (although can’t exceed about 2.10m including ducting), as I don’t want to sacrifice a significant volume of the workshop over the spray booth. Also, it will only be used occasionally, hence I like the ‘wardrobe’ style as it can essentially be...

Resurrecting a previous post of mine…… I’ve decided to go with an 18” Atex rated fan, as that should cover a range of potentially hazardous sprayable materials and also provide sufficient CFM given the planned booth opening. With regards to setup, I wondered whether anyone with experience of...

I’m looking at setting up/purchasing a spray booth, but, not having much experience with them, I want to make sure what I decide upon meets both performance and safety requirements. It will be used for spraying a variety of finishes, of which shellac probably raises the most complications. I...

I emailed Metabo customer service for general advice, but am yet to hear anything back. I think the previous time I tried contacting Metabo (different subject) I never heard back, so I don't have high hopes at the prospect of having to deal with them. It was bought off Amazon (supplied by them...

I'm hoping so. I'm waiting for Metabo to get back to me to see what support they offer.

Yes, if I remove the hose/bag/filters and just with the machine on (essentially not trying to use it as a vacuum, just as close as I can get it to testing the motor in isolation) the smell is immediately present in the exhausted air. It’s a Metabo (although essentially it’s a rebadged Starmix...

It’s got a new fleece bag in it. I’ve cleaned the filters. I’ve opened up the top and cleaned all accessible areas with compressed air and a cloth. I think realistically it’s as clean as it’s going to be for a used vacuum. I’ve also tried using it with all non-essential components in an effort...

I appreciate everything in its path will get sucked into the vaccum, but it’s never been used specifically on liquids so I’d be surprised if the limited amount of liquid that must have passed through it would have made its way into the motor housing. The marks almost seem to have a metallic...

I've done a bit more investigating this morning, and at the bottom of the motor housing there looks to be a potential 'issue' (attached photo). I'm not sure if this is related to the smell, but it is the best I have to go on for now. I'm guessing it is not meant to look like that. Does anybody...

This week my shop vac (Metabo - only a year old) has started to produce a slight burning smell from the from the exhausted air when switched on. Once the vacuum is switched off the burning smell disappears instantaneously, and so attempts at locating the source by immediately opening the vac up...

It’s a Victorian property that originally predates domestic electricity, so the circuitry became very much the product of numerous stages of additions throughout the years. When we bought the house we had an electrical inspection and wanted all the identified issues resolved, with everything...

We definitely have junction boxes in inaccessible places (i.e. under floorboards), that are the screw type. I wasn’t aware that a maintenance free version (spring type) exists. When we moved into the house it required renovations throughout, and logically we had electrics done near the start–...

Thanks all for the advice – I think we knew the answer but were frustrated about having to take up some of a partially restored floor (which clearly isn’t the right attitude!). We’re presently having some building works done (completely different are area often house, so not the cause of the...

I wondered if anyone had any advice on household electrics issues. Our upstairs lights have started to interfere with each other and are flickering. Most concerning is that there is a loud buzzing/crackling noise coming from a certain point under the floor upstairs where we know there is wiring...

Before we get around to fixing down floorboards that have been lifted for joistwork/plumbing etc., I want to be confident that everything that sits below is as future proofed for our needs as possible. With that I mind, there’s a short-term plan to build a workshop at the bottom of the garden...

I'm reading it off the cable, and I've checked again and it definitely reads 2 x 6 + 2.5mm. Unfortunately I don't have any box/packaging, so it's not possible to check there.

The cable running between the fuse box and hob wall switch is: CMK BASEC Electric Cable BS 6004 6242Y H 2x6+2.5mm 300/500 V CE 2016. I'm assuming this is a standard 6mm twin and earth, so we should be ok with regards to that component?

Thanks for the additional advice. I'll try and check what is running from the fuse box to the hob wall switch tonight. I'm intending to use the 4.0mm Butyl cable as previously recommended on this thread (below link) to go from the hob wall switch into the hob. Does the fuse box to wall switch...