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Just been looking at this in Cornwall but decided against. Apart from furnishings, welcome packs, laundry, cleaning, etc., which can all be found at a cost, you have insurance, business rates (as it’s a business now not residential), fire regulations (need fire doors, smoke detectors almost in...

Not so. The riving knife should be thinner than the width of the teeth, but preferably wider than the saw blade plate.

You could try calling local joinery firms, who will probably have the equipment and may be prepared to do the work.

These guys might be no good because they’re in France, http://www.clous.eu/, but I buy nails from them frequently. Ah, found an English version of their site that suggests they might deliver outside France https://www.nail.eu.com/en/home/. As recommended by Chris Schwarz...

In case it helps, here's a photo of a sash that fits the frame section in my earlier post: Compared to your drawing, this sash incorporates a drip to stop water tracking across the bottom of the sash. Also, the sash returns around the frame, and draught seals are in the sash rather than the...

I had to reduce the width of an inward opening window, here's a picture of the section: You are looking at a cross-section of the horizontal bottom rail of the window frame. The window sash overlaps the inside of the frame and includes standard draught-proofing strips. This window has no...

If it was me, I’d probably try tig brazing onto the gear to build up the worn area and then spend some time with files to recreate the teeth. Gas brazing would also work, so would mig or tig welding, but braze will be easier to file.

Same recommendation from me.

In case anyone is interested, I thought I'd update this thread to show the results. To recap, we have two pine beams, 40 cm square and 7.1 m long. We want a half round moulding on the bottom edges of the beam, where the moulding is about 2.5" diameter. First job was to plane the beam to...

Insulating the chimney void is a good idea. Plenty of info on why if you Google for it. I have insulated three flues, two with micafil (vermiculite grains) which is easy if you have access to the top of the chimney to pour it in, and one with rock wool. If you want to be extra sure that the...

I’d go for the Axminster saw. I’ve got a Sedgwick TA315, and it’s a very good machine, but I’m not convinced that it’s that much better than that Axminster. With the table extension you’ll be able to deal with sheet material easily, and the sliding fence will also be useful. I find the sliding...

Why the triple click? My experience is with Sketchup 2017, I would make a component, single click should select entire component, then copy/paste will paste a copy of the component. If you double click on any component, you can then edit the component and all instances of the component will...

I find metric rules, which usually have at least the first 5 to 10 cm marked in 0.5 mm graduations pretty much impossible to use with my eyesight. For almost everything, an imperial rule marked down to eighths is going to be fine and is very easy to read. Nothing finer than sixteenths is really...

The cable from the pole in the road to the meter is 35mm sq aluminium, effectively equivalent to 25mm sq copper so in theory it would support 100 A per phase. For a domestic tariff, the maximum supply is limited to 36 kW for three phase, which is about 50 A per phase. You can go up to 18 kW for...

We installed an 18kw three phase supply a year ago (in France). So far enough power for everything, which slightly surprised me! That’s about 25 amps per phase. In France we pay a different standing charge depending on the maximum power, but we’re also on a digital meter, so I can just phone up...

As far as thickness is concerned, there appears to be no reason why the tail vice section can’t be thicker than the rest of the bench, ie 125 at the front, 95 for the rest. You’ll need to trim the 95 to remove the roundovers on the top face or do a lot of flattening. 125 is a bit thick for a...

Nice little beading planes. For my bead I'm going to cut the quirk with a plunge saw, take the arris off with a chamfer cutter in the router, then plane it round. Beams should be here on Weds, I'll post pictures of the result.

I don't have any suitable moulding planes.

Thanks, but those cutters are too small, I need at least 19mm radius.

Yes, more like this: That's an example from about 1500. You can see the counter-beams above have the same detail on them. I did think about cutting a section out and planting a moulding on, but it this will be lightly stained and clear finished so it may look like an obvious hack. Also the...