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These seem reasonable, looks like they have various sized tapered inserts. You may have course already have seen them, in which case apologies for granny/egg/suck/etc https://www.oak-barrel.com/tap-adaptors-for-wooden-barrels-d140925.html

Remember to budget for your swearbox for those moments when you're searching for that casserole dish that you're absolutely certain was towards the back of the corner cupboard just behind the spare colander...

Potential solution to that could be incorporating a magnetic strip along the base of where the book rests, and then having little blocks made from the same timber as the book stand (or a contrasting timber) with rare earth magnets embedded in them. When in use, they hold the page in place, when...

On a different tack, I recently was recommended Kiwi brand knives, made in Thailand. They're so cheap that I picked up a few, and they're really excellent. Ludicrously sharp out the box! https://www.chopchopchop.co.uk/kiwi-knives.html Other than those, I have a 10" Henckels chef's knife which...

I finished a little wine box guitar speaker using Yacht varnish diluted with some white spirit from Poundstretchers of all places. The mix was roughly 2/3rds varnish, 1/3rd white spirit. Applied in a similar manner to what MikeG describes, although I did initial application with a sponge then...

Also a Close!

I use a battered old aluminium moka pot, have used the same one for going on a decade. It's never been washed with any kind of detergent, only rinsed thoroughly and on occasions where I've been away and it hasn't been used I give the bottom half's inside a scrub with a scouring pad and then just...

This has been my experience too, I've used a pencil (the same Ohto Super Promecha) at work for the last 10 years and those Uni Nano leads are by far the best I've used. Doubt I'd use a mechanical pencil on any sort of rough wood though, not when I've got handfuls of Screwfix and Ikea freebies!

Al Breed https://www.instagram.com/al.breed/

I myself dabbled with a Slate hone, not in 'Nam of course. Can't say I got on well with it, but I started on Norton India so that may be why. VERY different texture/feel.

^ What he said. I've refinished 4 tables of this type, never once used stripper. Sand from 120 grit, going up the grits to 320, sometimes 400. Finished with danish oil (Colron, because that's what I bought and a bottle lasts aaaaaages).

My wife's an artist & art teacher, she paints on boards all the time. I reckon just priming the board with gesso will be fine, no need to do anything more.

That's almost unfathomably bad, wow. I'd be asking for a refund, no doubt.

Foam roller or sponge pad

Linseed oil will be absolutely fine

I thought this was going to be Al Breed showing his dovetail cutting style! https://www.instagram.com/al.breed/ Nothing like watching a proper master at work.

Should add - the live edge “doors” are hinged, and held in place by tiny rare earth magnets in the inside of the carcass and the end grain of the walnut. Works a treat!

A plywood (standard 18mm, not baltic birch) and live edge walnut TV/Media unit I made last month. No WIP pictures because I’m an silly person and forgot to take any. All hand dimensioned, though no fancy joints other than reinforced butt joints. Not much point doing them in plywood anyway I reckon. Ply...

I, of course, bow to the massively superior experience of other members here, but I've had reasonable success using a 240 grit Garryflex block for denibbing between coats of danish oil on both teak (refinishing mid-century coffee tables) and American black walnut. Very gentle.

Check out TK Smith guitars - he makes everything except the machine heads himself and his guitars are stunning. Also there's a guy called Elisha Weisner on the Electrical Audio forum who's been making acoustics for a while, and his are also stunning. Go to the Electrical Audio forum, Tech Room...