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About two years ago I had a load of Douglas fir beams (6x6" and up to 5m long) delivered and a whole lot of cladding. Delivery lorry couldn't get up my lane so he just dumped it and left. I carried all that up a similar distance to you, during a heatwave. The beams were so heavy I could only...

Just read through the thread and this is exactly what I was going to say, deema beat me to it! Granted not floorboards, but I had a similar situation with an old pine table I sanded down and refinished. Came out patchy and uneven, looked pretty similar to your photos but now 8 years later you'd...

Oh that's clever, I like that. I assume the plywood pieces locate in the dog holes to ensure the rail is always set square?

Funnily enough I'm about to use some very similar brackets, my plan is just to measure and drill from both sides and hope for the best. Though I'm using coach bolts rather than dowels, so I may drill slightly over sized as it won't make much difference to strength.

Sounds intriguing @HOJ , got any pictures?

I use my tracksaw to cut down big sheets over saw horses, no need to cut the same piece of wood twice and waste more material and time. The MFT is for smaller pieces, very handy for quick repetitive cuts. I also have a small table saw. Plenty of overlap in functionality, but I never need to tidy...

I used to have the smaller, cheaper version of that saw and got pretty decent cuts from the stock blade. As --Tom-- says above, it's possible you've knackered the blade quickly if they're reclaimed scaffold boards? Another thought, and humour me here because I'd expect that saw to cut softwood...

Ah that's it, problem solved guys. No need for a tracksaw when you can manhandle a huge cast iron panel saw to every job with you. Though that's my workshop rendered useless now, I could fit the saw but no room for infeed or outfeed of an 8x4 sheet!

This is definitely the best starting point. What are you using to cut the boards? A finer blade with more teeth, or just a fresh (or freshly sharpened) blade should give you a cleaner cut that needs less work to finish. The "holes" in the end grain are likely because an agressive cut (or a dull...

Oh no you've said the words, Jacob will be here any minute now to tell you it's just a box! 😬

Sounds pretty similar to my own mft experience, including those very same clamps! You can cut away some of the metal at the bend to make them work, it probably weakens the clamp but it's not been an issue for me. I ended up buying 4 of These when Axminster had them on offer a little while back...

It's handy for cabinet construction/installation - for a large wardrobe carcass it's easy to machine and dry fit in the workshop, then flatpack to deliver to the customer. Reassemble, glue and screw in situ. Obviously movement is less of an issue with plywood or MDF so it's not usually a...

A large screwdriver will do, just anything that fits the hole and is long enough to exert some force, there's nothing magical about a tommy bar!

Looks like the velcro extends up the side so you fold the sandpaper around it. Actually might solve my issue of a round pad not getting into corners, if a 5" version exists I'll be tempted!

I kept the platten/pad from a broken black and decker 125mm random orbital sander, really handy for delicate finish sanding and obviously uses the same paper as my new sander. Obviously can't get into corners with it but that's where scraps of MDF and double sided tape come in handy!

Are you thinking it's plunging at a slight angle? I've definitely had that with my smaller df500 but it was entirely down to user error on my part. Now I always check quickly that the fence is sat dead flat on the workpiece - a quick glance at the side should be enough. Have you checked the...

So the tool is too heavy for you and that means it's a bad tool? I don't fancy swinging around a petrol disc cutter or a breaker hammer but I'm not about to go complaining about them on the internet! Excuse the state of the wood, I wasn't going to waste anything decent on this. Bear in mind...

Sorry I'm just talking generally about the Dominos here. Why would the 500 not have the same "issues"? You either use the reference pins/paddles or you use the line on the fence. I've not used the 700 on a project yet but from playing with it (and plenty of research) the two tools clearly...

In my previous post I said the sloppy setting is good "when appropriate" or something like that, can we just discuss that for a minute? I don't think anyone is using the sloppy setting for a structural joint when making furniture - say between a stretcher and table leg. That would be silly, but...

Thanks Spectric, sounds like it's just a difference in philosophy then. Working to a pencil line has never been an issue for me, and using the sloppy setting where appropriate doesn't worry me either. I'm viewing the DF700 as a handheld mortiser, for some of my projects I won't even use loose...