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  1. M

    Rolls Royce testing

    the gun exists, that much is true, but it's used to simulate birds trikes, the chickens being shot into gas turbines... the frozen chicken (turkey in this instance) highly probable... General Electric springs to mind, tho my memory could be wrong...
  2. M

    Disheartened

    Cut yourself some slack Andy... you've already done the hard bit, buying the gear to get the job done... all that's needed now is the 3 P's; Patience, Percistance and Practice... go back to basics... box is a collection of corners, right? So have a crack at just making a corner, and re-make...
  3. M

    Methods for squaring timber by hand

    At the risk of muddying the water a bit, I'll toss in my tuppence worth... Apparently I do things a little differently (judging by the majority of posts here/elsewhere), starting out with a roughcut slab of former tree, i.e. a country mile away from being smooth, straight, parallel and free of...
  4. M

    Preparing timber components to size

    I found the most reliable way (for me) to generate matched sets of stock was to build a long grain shooting board... nothing fancy about it... just 3 sheets of ply in a sandwich, top one's adjustable to allow varying widths of stock, centre has the stock rest on top of it and serves as a stop...
  5. M

    Screwdrivers

    just speculating, but I believe the OP was saying that the sparkie's 5.5 was the only one where the tip was narrow enough to enagage the slot... I doubt very much it would have the width to span the full width of the slot, resulting in tear out of the screw head and possible damage to the driver...
  6. M

    Plane advice

    As does my L-N #62... my point about the #5 1/2 was that based on experience, the #5 1/2 seems to be more versatile, definately has more authority when working awkward grain simply through having more mass to it. It would be interesting to see a side by side test between the #5 1/2 and the wider...
  7. M

    Plane advice

    Sounds like you're working similar stock to myself... With that in mind, I wouldn't hesitate in recommending the L-N #5 1/2, adding a couple of spare blades (honed to different radii) and a high angle frog to the shopping list. It has enough mass to handle fast stock removal with authority...
  8. M

    Plane advice

    deserter, it would help if you gave some idea re the types of stock that you normally work with. When I first made the transition from woodmunchers to handraulics, I'd no desire to spend a month fettling a lump of abused rust back to working condition, but couldn't afford to even think about...
  9. M

    Which block plane????????

    Speaking from experience, you can't go wrong with any of the L-N's... exceptionally well made and awesome in use. For sharpening A2, I use waterstones and the LV Mk2 jig
  10. M

    Bench Design - Please do a critique

    vise issues aside, the key requirements that every bench needs to have are rigidity, as much square footage in the top as space permits, and mass... heavier the better. Using relitivly light timber in the construction might leave you wanting in the mass dept, the drawers however may compensate...
  11. M

    LN 102 Low Angle Block Plane

    carefull... they're addictive...
  12. M

    Sam Maloof band saw techniques.

    might pick him up for lack of dust collection, but I doubt that'd trouble Sam much thesedays...
  13. M

    Probably a dumb Q; rebating a 'railway' sleeper

    job for the router I reckon...
  14. M

    Problem Oak

    Donno the specific species you're dealing with but I've encountered identical "features" in some locally harvested oak. Resolved with #6 and #4 1/2, both with hi angle frogs and very tight mouths, extremely fine set blade and experementing with direction of the stroke. It needs patience, but the...
  15. M

    Am I being picky about my wood?

    As a buyer, you're entitled to insist on getting high quality defect free timber if that's what you specify when you order. That said, the feature you're describing sounds like an unfortunate but natural feature of this particular species. Sycamore is the lightest coloured stock I have hands on...
  16. M

    How to finish a burr elm 'plank'

    Rob, as an auld fart in training with very auld school values, it's a relief to hear you intend the natural beauty of the board speak for itself... I'm north of you, about 30 miles NW of Aberdeen... quiet wee place with a hill for a back garden.. dead civilised... ;)
  17. M

    Landrover TD4 replacement clutch :-(

    it's not for nuffin they're known as Freeloaders.... I reckon I'll be sticking with my Series 3 for a few decades yet...
  18. M

    Lie Nielsen A2 Steel.

    sounds like there's something way wrong there... are you keeping the blade cool while grinding? Contact L-N and advise of the issue, they should make arrangements for an exchange through your supplier
  19. M

    Scottish Hardwoods (near Banff)

    Back with about 2 ton of oak, figured sycamore, some (t die for) elm and a wee bit of holly just to try something new.. Give them a call before heading up there, still plenty left and should continue to be for some time... palletloads still to be KD'd and sorted...
  20. M

    How to finish a burr elm 'plank'

    :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: Holy CH1T...!!! I mean... HOLY CH1T...!!!!!!!... I've only ever heard about boards like that... was just about to give up on them as a myth fed to noobs to keep them interested... then again... can a burr THAT size...
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