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Yes, sold.

I think Artie means just buy primary ingredients, like joints of meat, potatoes, veg etc. There is something to be said for that.

I’ve had a couple of machines damaged on pallets, but only because of cretinous packing. One (spindle moulder) was strapped on but with the fences sticking well out, so one got broken, the other was a cast iron radial arm saw, which the pillock didn’t even secure to the pallet, so it fell off...

Yes, I’ve got a Brennenstuhl meter that is reasonably good. In the house, wood stabilises to about 6-7%. Seasoned under cover, about 12-14%. If you bring wood inside, of course the outside and end grain dries first, so it helps to rip a piece in half and measure the inside. Use it regularly...

I went through a few blue Draper meters many years ago before getting fed up with strange behaviour and got a Fluke 87. They also have a 600V ac range, which tempts you to probe around the mains when they are nowhere near safe enough to do so. A good quote: “electrical diagnostics is hard...

Ah, didn’t see it was in the review section. Thought you were reporting a fault.

2.5 thou! That’s much more accurate than any tool you’d run in a Jacob’s chuck. I wouldn’t fiddle in case you make it worse. Then you’ll be annoyed.

I’ve been involved in some wood-mizering recently, and have my own small Alaskan mill. Unless you particularly want two waney edges, I’ve found it’s best to mill a flat, then turn 90deg and start slabbing. That way, all your boards have a flattish edge that your machines can work from. It’s also...

Or, if retaining the original bearings, at least clean them out (I use diesel) and repack lightly, making sure the grease ports are clear. Might be worth a look inside, in case it’s like the motor on my Wadkin RB: Yuck!

^^ That’s the intended use. Very easy to overgrease motor bearings, which makes a mess in the windings and can cause overheating from the extra friction. A little tweak every so often is all that’s needed.

Nasty. You have my sympathies. With 20/20 hindsight, your left hand should not have been anywhere near 3” from the blade, nor pushing sideways so as to pinch the kerf at the end of cut. I lay the push stick to the right of the fence, and start feeding with both hands. Once the timber engages...

I had a W040 several years ago, and found it to be a very capable little machine. It just lacked build quality (which made fine adjustments frustrating) and power (2hp). In fact, I’ve struggled to find a bigger machine with all the features of the Charnwood for a sensible price. Currently using...

Looks like 2mm pitch. In inches, that’s 0.0787”, which equates to about 12.7 tpi, which looks plausible from the photo. There is a trapezoidal metric thread in the MH, of 2mm pitch, but with a nominal diameter of 16.5mm. So, non-standard as far as I can see. A decent machinist could probably...

5/8” Acme is usually 8 tpi. Square thread is quite rare - even the Machinery’s Handbook is brief on it, but might be 11 tpi at that size. There is also a 10deg ‘slightly’ square thread! You could buy each of the thread gauges mentioned above, and see which one fits best. Then you’d need either...

I cleaned a big lot of taps quickly by scrubbing them with a small wire brush in some old chainsaw petrol. The petrol then evaporated away, leaving a nice oil film.

@deema It’s probably worth opening this up for others to chip in, so I’ve pinged a post over to Trevanion at the other forum. He’s pretty good with machinery techniques old and new.

With a CMS, I either plunge in with travel locked or, for bigger pieces, lift the blade over the work, drop and cut away from me (conventional cutting?) RAS, pull towards with stiff arm (climb cutting). Is that not what you do? My wood machining books are too old for CMS info! That said, my...

I made this very crudely with a chainsaw about 12 years ago. I wish I knew what wood it is, because it’s stood up to constant abuse, including being put in the dishwasher regularly and use as a butcher’s block. It got a good soaking with veg oil when first made, but nothing much since. Certainly...

Either way round - it’s AC.

On the face of it, that sounds like daylight robbery. Get a photo of the part and the part number and we should be able to find it, or pull up a datasheet and get an equivalent.