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The message from AES relates to a concern I had - especially if you are not able to move the scroll saw yourself Cowboy. As far as I could see all the courier companies require the item to be packaged by the sender (I did find one that would supply the pallet and "shrinkwrap"). The label on the...

Is there any chance it can be packed up and couriered (at my cost)? Would definitely be interested if it can.

Thanks again for your input. I'm primarily interested in one for woodwork - looking for a new toy rather than just doing woodturning!

Ok - thanks. So are you also saying that all 3018/3020 models (for example the Genmitsu 3020-ProMax V2) are not worth considering as a hobbyist/beginner (on paper it looks OK)?

I've seen reference to model types for CNC of 3018 and 3020 from various suppliers - what is the significance of this numbering system?

I have a Clarke drill (bought from Machine Mart). It was bought a good number of years ago and they may have improved it since then - but as a drill for making holes accurately it is useless as the quill moves as soon as you apply any pressure.

I made a jig based on this YouTube clip It worked reasonably well using an old corded Bosch router but would agree with bobajob that you do need to come up with a way that eliminates any unwanted movement. I tried copying the concept behind Paul Howards jig with a "limiter" over the end of the...

or from the actual base of the lathe to the drive centre is c. 380mm. I have mine on the Record stand rather than a bench.

I've had my Record 320 for quite a few years and have no complaints. Backed by Record's 5 year warranty.

Yes to all three! You can drive out any morse taper centres you are using through the ends. (The lathe should come with the couple of pieces to use for this).

I've had one of those for the best part of 7 years and have no complaints. It doesn't get used "hard" but I've turned bowls up to the maximum size and with the variable speed have had no issues. The speed controller failed early on but that was replaced with no fuss and it's been fine since.

I bought a "cheap" pillar drill from Machine Mart a few years ago and whilst it is OK at drilling holes if you want any precision it is awful as the quill wanders all over the place. Whilst it is not the same as the one you mention it may well be a trait of the cheap ones. My 2p worth...

The large jaws give c. 53mm in contraction mode and c. 90mm in expansion (having just measured mine). Looks like a typo on the specs for the large jaws.

I have a SC3 chuck and the large set of remounting jaws. I don't have a problem with using the chuck key - I agree it would be nice if it was longer but it is usable; just takes a bit longer to tighten them up if they are wide open

Thanks all for the comments - very useful.

This is not a question as to which powered respirator is the best (Trend, Axminster etc.) but just what do people use for ear defenders when using a respirator? The Trend Airflow used to have an option of clip on ear defenders but they seem to have been discontinued.

Thanks Dalboy - after a bit of "googling" I get it now. Just need to practice!

That looks very nice. I have a stack of spalted silver birch and will try that. As a beginner to this hobby I am intrigued as to the best way to hold such pieces for working - would you mind showing the base?

Thank you all for your comments - very informative. The reason I asked was that I have a lot of wood lying around (mainly ash, oak and birch) and I could get bigger pieces out of the wood by not worrying about grain direction - but I'll take on board what you have all said.

It may be a daft beginners question but is there is a reason why face-plate work (for bowls etc.) has the grain perpendicular to the lathe bed - is it purely for aesthetics or is related to wood strength? If the latter are there are any "rules" as to what the limits are if using grain parallel...