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My low-tech solution for a very heavy table saw was to bolt it down to a sturdy pallet, then use a pallet-jack to move it whenever I need to. I probably move it once a year. If you were moving it weekly it might get annoying.

OP, are you sure the fibre-optic cable isn't already armoured? It seems unlikely for a professional installer to put it in just 6" down, under a gravel driveway, un-armoured. If it is armoured, then (I believe) it should be fine to surround it with sand, ideally with some caution tape above...

I have Makita kit, but keep looking at the Ryobi nailer. I already have a Ryobi adapter to use Makita batteries with it. I still have air in the workshop, but have moved most of my tools to cordless now. Don't be held back by the battery brand.

Another vote for Brother, works well, I use about 1% of the fancy functions on it. Wide range of tapes, if that's useful. I also keep a set of sharpies and Eddings paint pens around for quicker labelling. And chalk pens for temporary marking, very handy. (I'm intrigued by AES's mention of...

It's going to be a fabulous workbench. What are you planning on making on it? BTW, if you ever want to move the workbench, these retractable castor wheels are quite neat, and the feet adjust to the floor: 4pcs GD-60F 3.2" Industrial Casters Plate Casters Swivel Wheel Retractable Leveling...

Concur - I've had some masking tape over this for years, works fine!

Richard_C's post is good. From my pov, I think a real "next step" is to sort out taking some holiday. Not taking any holiday isn't good for you. Nor is it good for your school, it will be something your HR/manager are worrying about. Or should be. Don't worry FOR them, it's their job to...

Can you put the compressor in a corner? Of all the machines, the compressor seems most suited to being tucked out of the way, rather than in the middle of your workshop, so long as you have easy access to the hose. If you have more space in the other building it could go there too.

I poured Screwfix/Mapei self levelling SLC over my rough concrete floor, very thin layer. Some give/flex, much more comfortable to walk/stand on, and easier to move heavy machinery. Very easy to do (with a spiked roller).

I have a Makita chainsaw (it's great BTW) and a Ryobi pole-chainsaw. The Ryobi runs using a Badapter off my Makita batteries. I really don't want to start another collection of batteries. The Badapters seem to be cheaper on Amazon than from their own site.

I don't have a magical solution, but if you find a suitable collar which is a bit too large, a method to make the column wider is to take some plastic piping (from any builder's merchants) which is slightly too small, cut it lengthways, then wrap it around the column. This may give you more...

Agree, I think a phone call to an agri building supplier would be well worth it. Steel will surely be much more cost-effective.

600mm vs 601mm is roughly 0.666% - is that really causing an issue? If it's an underfloor then it shouldn't cause any problems.

Stunning restoration, makes me want to go and give my Startrite some TLC!

It's potentially a whole mound of paperwork for them, especially if they aren't familiar with it.

We dug up lots of terracotta quarry tiles and changed over to Karndean/Amtico. Huge improvement. Generally "feels warmer" underfoot (even when UFH is off). Much much much easier to clean. No grouting. Much more level surface. Better colours/choices. Dropped items sometimes survive. Did I...

I'd vote for ash, if only because in a damp environment I notice my beech logs go "bad" more easily than my ash logs. Either will probably be just fine as a workbench, perhaps choose whatever you have, or whichever looks better to you :-)

HP Laser printers ("laserjets") are generally very good quality, but their inkjet printers are much more "consumer-grade". Colour laser printers (e.g. Brother) are now so cheap - most people with normal needs don't need to buy another HP Deskjet/inkjet.

Couple of ways of doing it, depending upon the thickness. You can stack it, or more easily, get the edges pretty straight then hold the edges close together. Run the track saw along the (small) gap so that the kerf cuts both boards. This will then be a consistent edge on both sides. Some more...

Cheap Amazfit watch/band here - seems to cope pretty well, and at £35 I'm not worried about it getting damaged. This seems to be a question along the lines of "do you want an expensive watch or a cheap watch?"